Gain an appreciation of our history
Vimy memorial honours fallen soldiers and a pivotal moment in Canadian history
It is called the battle that made the Canadian nation. It is the stuff of inspiring fiction and stirring history. Vimy Ridge has become a travel destination for Canadians who want to visit where, in April 1917, young Canadians battled valiantly and many lost their lives. It was the essential destination in my memorable battlefield tour of Northeastern France.
Inspired by the work of the Vimy Foundation, the book Victory at
Vimy by author Ted Barris and Jane Urquart’s work of fiction
The Stone Carvers, my wife Lois and I took the opportunity to tour the First World War monument sites in France to discover where Canadian history was made. We also wanted to visit Vimy prior to the 100th Anniversary celebrations on April 9, 2017.
We flew to Brussels and began our tour from the French town of Arras. Arras is a major stop on the French rail system and is easily accessible from Paris, Brussels or London. Arras has plenty of hotels, Airbnb’s, restaurants and car rental companies. It is close to many of the monuments.
In Arras we enjoyed a tour of the underground war tunnels (a town beneath the town) and the amazing Wellington Quarries constructed by the New Zealanders which became a refuge for many allied soldiers. The belfry offers spectacular views of this medieval French town.
There are many ways to tour the area. We hired an excellent guide, a Canadian named Valerie Bince Stuart working out of Arras, who tailored the day to what we wanted to cover.
During the First World War, the 14-km Vimy Ridge formed a highly significant part of German defences. Repeated French and British initiatives failed to take the Ridge resulting in 150,000 casualties.
The Canadian corps was finally given the mandate and, under innovative Canadian leadership on April 9, 1917, stormed the Ridge. Aided by the British 5th Division and many artillery units, the Canadians achieved their objective, and the next day took Hill 145 where the Vimy monument is located.
Out of 10,602 casualties, 3,598 Canadians gave their lives. It was the first time in war that more than 100,000 Canadian troops fought together as one force as Canadians — not as a colony of Britain. The victory was significant for Allied fortunes, united Canadians and was a source of pride and accomplishment. The Canadians had demonstrated great courage and imaginative ingenuity. As one brigadier general wrote: “In those few minutes, I witnessed the birth of a nation.”
The Canadian National Vimy Memorial was the most impressive of all that we visited. An 11-year labour of love by Canadian architect Walter Allward, the monument rests on 11,000 tonnes of concrete. The many sculptures and towering pylons contain almost 6,000 tonnes of limestone brought to the site from an abandoned Roman quarry on the Adriatic Sea. The figures are dramatic and beautiful, and each has their own. The walls of the monument are inscribed with the names of 11,285 Canadian soldiers who were killed in France and whose final resting place was unknown.
Restoration and upgrading of the Vimy Visitor Centre is ongoing, with completion scheduled for early next year. The roads to the site are moving to one-way and can be confusing to the uninitiated. I recommend you book a tour and not drive yourself. Don’t forget to tour the tunnels near the Vimy Visitor Centre; they played a major role in the Canadians’ victory.
Half an hour south of Vimy, visit the battlefield and Newfoundland’s beautiful memorial to the war at Beaumont-Hamel, where most of the 1st Newfoundland Regiment was killed or injured. Also in the Somme region is the British memorial at Thiepval where 480,000 British lost their lives. Both are impressive with amazing history. Close to Vimy is the French cemetery and memorial at Notre Dame de Lorette. You may wish to stop here for lunch as the French memorial has an excellent restaurant (reservations recommended).
It is said that the First World War shaped the century, and from its effluent came the Second World War and the consequent massive political changes in Russia and Germany. It is worth studying, as we are not immune from repeating the mistakes that were made. It is important that we pass the torch of remembrance to the next generation of Canadians so young Canadians understand our history.
The Vimy Foundation helps accomplish this goal with its student programs. By 1918, more than 600,000 Canadians had served in the Great War with more than 172,000 wounded, and one in 10 died. These soldiers sacrificed their lives for our freedom — the least we can do is remember the nine million mostly young men and honour them with a visit. All the major cities of Europe are a short train ride to the monuments — take the family and make a day trip and gain an appreciation of our history.