The Niagara Falls Review

Aure Wines dares to be different

- BOB TYMCZYSZYN

Before I go any further, I have to mention last week’s Cuvee 2017 that once again showcased some of Ontario’s best wines at Scotiabank Convention Centre in Niagara Falls.

Both the cool climate oenology and viticultur­e institute at Brock University and VQA Wines of Ontario deserve a pat on the back for a great night that says farewell to the winter season and looks forward to another great vintage.

For me, it’s like being a kid in candy store, and you don’t have to pay.

But you still have to be judicious; you don’t really want to try them all.

And I was pleased with my choices this year, running the gamut from inexpensiv­e to $120 a bottle, with nary a miss in appeal.

Cuvee is also where I first tried wines by Aure Wines, a familyrun operation that sits on the Niagara Escarpment just south of Beamsville.

First impression­s were good. I arranged to meet with winemaker William Hoare, son of owners David and Annette.

The 27-year-old explained that the family moved from England in the late ’90s, landing in New Brunswick before deciding to come further inland for the warmer weather promised by Ontario.

“We (the family) were wine touring, and kind of fell in love with the idea and everything that goes with it,” said Hoare.

“We started doing it and haven’t looked back.”

Soft-spoken, the self-taught winemaker said his love for food and wine helped transition from his studies in hospitalit­y at Niagara College.

“I didn’t really take any (winemaking) programs, but learned through the industry.

“It’s always been my passion, I do research it.”

It’s the research that brought Hoare the idea of making a white Gamay.

“We are a smaller winery, we have some flexibilit­y to say, ‘Let’s try this and see what happens.’

“It was the most rewarding. It was a risk because you can’t just go to the store and buy a white Gamay,” he said.

Hoare wanted to produce a nice, clean white that still has some fruit, but nice acidity.

“It’s not like your Blanc de Blanc. It’s just ever so slightly different to be interestin­g, but not so different to be wrong.”

Made in the “charmat method” for which secondary fermentati­on occurs in the tank, the wine is light in colour and body.

Not sweet, the Gamay holds onto some of the fruit, but the acidity keeps it fresh and light-tasting.

The vibrant mousse dissipates somewhat quickly, but you would expect that from a shorter tank fermentati­on.

What it leaves you with is a very pleasing spring/summer wine that goes well by itself, or as you sit down for a light lunch.

Priced at $22.95, the sparkling wine is available at the winery.

 ?? BOB TYMCZYSZYN/POSTMEDIA NETWORK ?? Aure Wines’ 2015 Blanc de Noirs Sec sparkling wine.
BOB TYMCZYSZYN/POSTMEDIA NETWORK Aure Wines’ 2015 Blanc de Noirs Sec sparkling wine.
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