A falafel to feel good about
A Jew walks into an Arab’s falafel shop in Israel and what happens next turns out to be Niagara’s good fortune.
That’s when Uzy Yaar learned the art of making the perfect falafel. Rule No. 1 of turning out the perfect chickpea fritter that’s a staple of Middle Eastern cuisine is to use only chickpeas.
Even chickpea flour is a no-no, said his mentor, who had served Uzy countless times before sharing his trade secrets. Ditto for parsley or onions, or anything else that doesn’t qualify as a chickpea.
“I learned mine from one of the best falafels in Israel,” Uzy said. “He told me, ‘Just use chickpeas and you’ll have the best falafel around.’”
He’s been testing that theory since last July when he and his wife Terri launched Magical Mediterranean Munchies, their food stall selling fare for which Israel and much of the Middle East are famous.
They shell out their discshaped chickpea patties — a revelation, really, for this falafeleating veteran — at farmers markets in St. Catharines (Tuesdays and Thursdays), Port Colborne (Fridays) and Welland (Saturdays).
Alongside those is an extensive menu of vegetarian and vegan fare that includes shakshuka, a hearty concoction of eggs poached in tomato sauce, maqluba, an upsidedown vegetable casserole, and saabich, a formidable sandwich filled with layers of grilled eggplant, egg, potatoes and feta cheese.
“On our first date, we said we’re going to move to Canada and open a falafel stand. It was a joke,” Terri said.
But the reality is the couple who met online in Israel spend hours in a church kitchen every week kibitzing and preparing their menu for a roster of loyal fans they want to grow to the point of sustaining a restaurant one day.
Their ultimate goal in slinging all those ready-made meals with Uzy’s fresh-baked pita on the side isn’t just to forge a living in their new home city, however. (Terri is a Toronto ex-pat and Uzy is a former Israeli army captain coping with is first Canadian winter.)
When they arrived in St. Catharines, a city they were drawn to in part for its Jewish community, Terri said she felt her “Jewish mama instincts” kick in. Feeding people the Mediterranean diet she was used to eating seemed desperately needed here, she recalled.
“I’ve been away 15 years and I was really shocked at what was walking around,” she said. “By the time my grandchildren are going to have their babies, there won’t be enough money in the healthcare system to support maternal care because we’ll be spending too much on Type 2 diabetes.”
It’s true the prevalence of the disease that inhibits the body’s proper use of insulin is expected to rise in Canada. Diabetes Canada predicts that 5.2 million, or more than 12 per cent, of Canadians will have Type 2 diabetes by 2025.
People who are overweight are particularly vulnerable to developing the disease. Those with Type 2 diabetes are also more likely to be hospitalized for cardiovascular disease and end-stage kidney disease.
Enter the Mediterranean diet and the food the Yaars sell. Rich in fruits, vegetables and fibre, the Mediterranean diet has been promoted by diabetes awareness organizations as one way of helping control the blood sugar levels of those with the disease. It can also protect against developing Type 2 diabetes.
“Our food is naturally vegan and vegetarian,” Terri said. “I found a niche … We need healthy. You don’t need animal protein.”
The new Canada Food Guide, due out this year, backs that up. The first update to the guide since 2007 will promote eating more nutrientdense, plant-based foods.
The couple were certain when they launched that their menu would appeal to young vegans, given the popularity of local plantbased businesses run by young entrepreneurs, including Rise Above and Beechwood Doughnuts in St. Catharines.
Every Mediterranean Munchie is served in compostable containers, promising health benefits with minimal impact on the environment. The couple have also recently added healthy, homemade dog treats to the menu so no one has to miss out on the Mediterranean diet.
Instead, they find older adults are stocking up on hummus, pita and other ready-to-eat meals to get them through the week.
But they’re confident that once more people sample Uzy’s falafel and pita — and anything else on their health-inspired menu — they’ll be catering to new crowds.
“Whatever we do, we don’t compromise on ingredients,” Uzy said.
“It’s about ethics and integrity,” Terri added. “You know what you’re getting, no surprises.”
— Tiffany Mayer is the author of Niagara Food: A Flavourful History of the Peninsula’s Bounty. She blogs about food and farming at timeforgrub. com. twitter.com/eatingniagara