Thirty years for Konzelmann
The family winery endures
While the official celebration of the Niagara Grape and Wine Festival is over, fall is one of the best times to visit or re-visit some of your favourite wineries, now with smaller crowds.
And it’s time to recognize two wineries that this year celebrate 30 years in Niagara.
The Speck family of Henry of Pelham (to be featured in the next column) and Herbert Konzelmann both opened their doors in 1988.
While some people might say 30 years is really not that noteworthy a milestone, it is important when you think of the still fledgeling wine industry of Niagara in 1988.
For Konzelmann it is also continuing the family name in the wine industry after his great-grandfather started his winery in 1893.
Now aged 81 years, Herbert looks on proudly as we walk the estate.
More often than not, he will be spotted early in the morning checking over the fruit on the vines or talking with fellow winemaker Eric Peterson, who has taken over much of the responsibility.
It was 1984 when Konzelmann, originally from Uhlbach, Germany, decided to make Canada his home, planting his first grapes after finding what he felt were some of the best soils for growing grapes.
“I planted 100 per cent vitis vinnifera.
“We had a nice Baco (noir), a nice Vidal,” says Konzelmann, who feels the grapes are better here in Canada.
“I worked 70 to 80, 90 hours a week and had muscles like this,” he says as he squeezes his biceps.
The work has paid off, and there isn’t a moment that he doesn’t feel grateful to the Creator for giving him the opportunity.
“I now see the fruit from my winery; I have very good people around me,” he says.
“When I see all these things it makes me happy.”
As we walk from room to room in the estate, one of the guides makes note to a group that Herbert is the winemaker, and a round of applause erupts. Humble and gracious, he thanks them and asks if they are enjoying themselves, engaging the guests.
Back and forth we go from the tasting room to the production to the cellar, 30 years his junior, I still find myself working to keep up.
And there is a glint in his eye that shows both the passion he has and his vigour.
During our talk, and it is talk rather than an interview, he says one thing that sticks in my mind.
“We take not one cent out from this world.”
Honest words to make you stop and think.
Curious, I ask of his future plans. The winery has now expanded 10-fold from the early days, and he says this is as big as they should go.
“Before 6, I put my shoes on and go to the winery and ask to myself how much longer, I really don’t know.”
Over the years he has learned to create wine for which oak is not too strong.
“It kills the fruit,” he explains. “You cannot see any more of the wine, it’s like adding too much garlic or salt.”
As we sip through a variety of the wines, his excitement and pride are clearly evident with every sample.
Delving into the reds, we taste the 2015 Merlot Reserve, a full-bodied wine sitting with honour awards at Intervin and priced at just under $30.
Personally, I think this is one of those Niagara values that should not go unnoticed. While it possesses some tannins, they are smooth, making an excellent pairing for a roast or substantial steak. Deep in flavour with ripe red fruit, it has good length that also does well on its own.
Cellar it, if you can keep your hands off it.
Before I leave, Herbert hints that he’s not done with new things yet.
We taste from an unmarked barrel in the cellar room.
Delicious, I fortify my thoughts to come back when it is finally bottled.
Hopefully, he’ll make it available to everyone.