Bold food paired with the right wines at ONE

The Peterborough Examiner - - ENTERTAINMENT - SHARI DAR­LING Shari Dar­ling’s books and other pub­li­ca­tions are avail­able at un­der­stand­pub­lish­

For Valen­tine’s Day, Jack and I en­joyed lunch at a new res­tau­rant called One Fine Food. It is an Ital­ian-themed, mar­ket-style gourmet food store and res­tau­rant rolled into one, lo­cated at 800 Ersk­ine Av­enue (http://one­fine­

I did not drink wine with lunch but cer­tainly scanned their wine list. Im­pres­sive. Ital­ian. None of the wines are avail­able through the LCBO, en­cour­ag­ing you to dine at ONE to en­joy a fab­u­lous glass of Ital­ian wine with your meal. The list of­fers 35 dif­fer­ent wines, 4 of­fered by the glass and rang­ing in price from $8.50 to $10.50 (for an 8 ounce pour).

I’m not a fan of parsnips or kale. I re­frain from pur­chas­ing th­ese items in the su­per­mar­ket and cer­tainly avoid eat­ing them when din­ing out. I’ve just never had th­ese ingredients pre­pared for me in a sat­is­fy­ing way that has my palate sing in de­light. I have per­son­ally never pre­pared th­ese items in a way that works for me ei­ther.

To test Chef Brian’s culi­nary mas­tery, I de­cided to or­der the North­ern Ital­ian Roasted Parsnip soup (with beef broth) gar­nished with parsnip chips and basil oil I also or­dered thin-crusted Fungi pizza topped with pesto, mixed mush­rooms, roasted gar­lic and fresh kale. Both dishes were down­right scrump­tious. I have fallen in love with this culi­nary jewel-of-amar­ket-and-res­tau­rant.

Our wait­ress also proved be highly pro­fes­sional, pos­sess­ing etiquette, knowl­edge, warmth, and en­thu­si­asm.

The mar­ket-part-of-the-store is loaded with Ital­ian, gourmet and healthy prod­ucts and ingredients, en­cour­ag­ing you to pre­pared a home­made meal at home to part­ner wine from the LCBO.

The mar­ket in­cludes a bak­ery, butcher and seafood bar, an Ital­ian cheese counter (also fea­tur­ing some lo­cal cheeses), gro­ceries, and gourmet pre­pared foods.

All of ONE’s pas­tas are made fresh, by hand, and from se­molina flour. You can buy pre­pared fresh, Ital­ian noo­dles by weight and jars of their pre­pared sauces to quickly toss to­gether at home.

Fresh noo­dles avail­able for sale in­clude spaghetti, lin­guini, far­falle, fusilli, conchiglie (seashells), gnoc­chetti, penne, and oth­ers.

It’s the flavour and weight of the sauce that must be con­sid­ered when choos­ing a suit­able wine part­ner. ONE’s Bolog­nese sauce is meaty and in­cor­po­rates the most flavour­ful part of Parmi­gianno-Reg­giano cheese – the rind. This sauce is best to be served with a full-bod­ied Ital­ian red like Barolo and Bar­baresco. Both va­ri­eties are highly aro­matic and cel­e­brate a good bal­ance of acid to tan­nin and as­trin­gency (struc­ture) to clean and sat­isfy the palate.

Talk to your wine con­sul­tant who works at Vin­tages within the LCBO to rec­om­mend the tasti­est and most rea­son­ably priced ver­sion of th­ese two Ital­ian reds to buy for your meal.

ONE’s Leek and Wild Mush­room Sauce tossed with your favourite Ital­ian noo­dles can be served along­side a glass of Valpo­li­cella Ri­passo from north­ern Verona in the Veneto Re­gion of Italy. This Ital­ian red re­tains its Valpo­li­cella acid­ity and vi­brancy but is more ro­bust and flavour­ful.

Dur­ing its vini­fi­ci­a­tion, the un­der­goes the ri­passo tech­nique.

Sim­ply said, Valpo­licela wine is in­fused with the po­mace (grape skins and seeds) from the fer­men­ta­tion of Re­cioto and Amarone for a pe­riod of ex­tended mac­er­a­tion.

This adds to the re­sult­ing wine more struc­ture and depth of flavour.

While clas­si­cally French, ONE’s Bechamel sauce with gar­lic is rich, creamy, and down­right fatty. This sauce tossed with noo­dles de­mands a big, fat white wine. Co-owner Matthew Choma sug­gests an Ital­ian white to match, specif­i­cally Italy’s Falanghina or Falanghina Greco, an Ital­ian grape of Greek ori­gin. This is ac­tu­ally the name of the grape, grown in Cam­pa­nia in south­ern Italy.

Sim­i­lar to Chardon­nay, this wine of­fers flavours of ap­ple and pear, but with a big oily mouth­feel. It has its own unique and de­light­ful iden­tify. Hence this is why the wine has enough sub­stance to stand up to this French roux and but­ter-based sauce.

Again, speak to your lo­cal wine con­sul­tant for rec­om­men­da­tions of spe­cific brands to try of th­ese wines.


New eatery ONE, lo­cated on Ersk­ine Ave. near Lans­downe Place, serves fine Ital­ian fare and of­fers the ingredients in­store to take home. The wine list, Shari Dar­ling dis­cov­ered, has wines you can't find any­where else.

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