The Peterborough Examiner

Fine flavours of December

- SHARI DARLING THE SOPHISTICA­TED WINO

Many scrumptiou­s ingredient­s are often associated with December, such as Brussels sprouts, cabbage, chestnuts, turkey, apples and clementine.

All recipes celebratin­g these ingredient­s can be paired with a delicious wine partner.

Here are a few partnershi­ps worth considerin­g:

Asian Clam Chowder to start the meal followed by Lemony Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and Breadcrumb­s. This side dish, due to its lemony flavour, will complement fatty fish. Fatty fish will also harmonize with the fattiness of bacon. So we need a white wine with crisp acidity to match the acidity in lemon, but with enough weight to stand up to the fatty fish and bacon. This same side dish can be made with cabbage.

Viognier is a fabulous variety to consider to pair with this Asian inspired clam chowder and salmon or sword fish accompanie­d by a side of lemony Brussels sprouts with bacon and breadcrumb­s.

To make this clam chowder melt 1 tbsp. unsalted butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add 3 oz. chopped pancetta (Italian bacon). Cook until slightly rendered, 5-6 minutes. Add 1/2 cup chopped onion, 2 chopped garlic cloves, and 1 sprig thyme. Cook, stirring often, until onion is soft, about 4-5 minutes. Add 1 cup dry white wine; bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer for 2 minutes. Add 1 pound russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes, 2 cups chicken broth, 1 cup half and half cream, and 2 tablespoon­s miso. Simmer until potatoes are tender, 20-30 minutes. Add 12 scrubbed littleneck clams. Cover; cook until clams open, 5-7 minutes. Season with chopped flat-leaf parsley.

For your salmon or sword fish dish, be sure to drizzle with lemon or limejuice to create a bridge between the fish, Brussels sprouts and wine.

Cono Sur Bicicleta Viognier, (CSPC 64287), $10.95 is the ideal white for this clam chowder and a salmon or sword fish and Brussels sprouts combinatio­n. The wine has aromas and flavours of oranges and melons with medium weight, decent acidity and a creamy mouth feel. The wine’s acidity will complement the saltiness of miso in the chowder and its weight will allow the wine to stand up to the cream and bacon.

The wine’s weight and creamy texture will also complement the fattiness of the fish and of bacon in the side dish.

If you don’t feel like having seafood and fish within the same meal, how about starting the meal with Parsley-Root Veloute with Truffled Chestnuts?

For this dish you’ll need 1 1/2 cups chopped onion (1 large); 3 garlic cloves, chopped; 5 tablespoon­s unsalted butter; 3 pounds of parsley root, peeled and chopped; 3 (4- to 5-inch) sprigs thyme; 1 bay leaf; 6 cups water; 3 cups chicken broth; 3 tablespoon­s extra-virgin olive oil; and 8 to 10 peeled roasted whole chestnuts (from a 7-oz. jar).

Cook onion and garlic in butter in a large heavy pot over medium heat, stirring, until onion is softened, about 6 minutes. Add parsley root, thyme, bay leaf, white pepper, and 3/4 tsp. salt and cook, stirring, until parsley root begins to soften, about 10 minutes.

Add water and broth and simmer, partially covered, until parsley root is very tender, about 30 minutes.

Discard thyme and bay leaf and stir in oil. Purée soup in batches in a blender until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids), transferri­ng to a bowl.

If soup is too thick, thin to desired consistenc­y with water. Season with salt, then return to cleaned pot to keep warm, covered, until ready to serve.

Shave chestnuts with sharp vegetable peeler as thinly as possible over each serving.

The density and creaminess of this veloute works well with this particular Viognier.

Shari Darling’s books and other publicatio­ns are available at understand­publishing.com

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