Exploring scenic Nova Scotia in June
Columnist writes about return to Halifax-area summer home
As some readers have reported that they like to hear about Nova Scotia, my column today is about our return this year to our summer home on the peninsula of Feltzen South near Rose Bay. We are located about 80 minutes south of Halifax across the bay from the ever-picturesque town of Lunenburg. We arrived on June 2nd after a comfortable three-day drive with friendly visits along the way
The sixth month is always an interesting time across the Maritimes as the weather at its best is unpredictable and occasionally harsh. In fact, the spring had hardly begun here when we arrived. This gives us an added bonus--a second spring after our excellent April and May in Ontario. In June here on Nova Scotia’s South Shore one can expect plenty of wind, rain, cold and fog to counteract the welcome bursts of sun and warmth. Truth be told, there is more of the former and less of the latter in June, though, as the summer approaches, the weather improves noticeably. Month by month, the South Shore gets warmer and more inviting. With the exception of the occasional hurricane spinning up the Atlantic shore, August and September are gorgeous months.
This year our June has often been cold and windy. For instance, today as I write (Monday June 25) we have been hit hard by driving rain and high winds. Gusts from the north up to 80 kilometres (or 50 miles) per hour have been sweeping over us since early morning. Though the rains finally stopped as noon approached, the temperature hovered around 10 degrees and you could hardly keep your hat on when you went out for a walk. But then, up on our hill overlooking Lunenburg Bay, we are seldom without refreshing breezes off the water, even on calm days.
For me, days of strong winds and cold air are both dramatic and exciting. The onslaught of heat and humidity often experienced during Ontario summers did little for me, while I find that the changeable maritime weather has its enduring pleasures. Indeed, the weather is always one of the special appeals of a Nova Scotia summer. But there are many others.
It does not take long to be reminded of a number of enduring fascinations. First there are the people. The locals (so-called) are open and friendly but never intrusive. They readily offer a warm welcome and a helping hand. Moreover they are endlessly resourceful and very handy. They have their own way of speaking, their own emphases and special phrasing. You are not a tourist here but a ‘torist’, and they have a delightful way of dropping pronouns that are simply unnecessary. They will say ‘Will you come with?’ and leave off the ‘me’. It always catches my attention, but I have grown to anticipate their economy of phrasing.
Our maritime world is comprised of locals and CFA’s (come-from-away’s). Our immediate neighbour is a Nova Scotian born and bred; he is a lobsterman, harbour master, and jack-of-all-trades. He started his working life on a scallop-dragger and then as a butcher. Those skills make a gift from him like halibut steaks easy to deal with as they come to us perfectly cut and ready to cook. Of course, he also knows how to crack a lobster with a
couple of well-aimed strokes. As part of his welcome, he always has ten lobsters ready for us to cook once we arrive.
The CFA population on Feltzen South is a delightful mix. They come from all over-Canada, Switzerland, Germany, England, and the United States. A small but socially active community has emerged amongst us, aided in part by the fact that most of us have homes along our peninsula where we enjoy a spectacular view of Lunenburg, the village of Blue Rocks, and the ocean beyond. That makes up our neighbourhood. Our numerous and talented American friends, mostly retired like us, are especially apologetic these days given the bizarre and insensitive pronouncements issuing daily from their treasured White House. The quality of leadership at the top is the new problematic that we all share.
But beyond our busy Feltzen community (which includes two small churches) we have the ocean which every day offers a different look; one day the bay is utterly calm and benign—a day or two later it is a wind-blown, white-capped fury full of danger for anyone who tries to test its strength. But often it is simply lovely to look at and to meditate upon. Like Melville’s Ishmael I find myself staring at the waters of Lunenburg Bay over my morning coffee or a late afternoon scotch. Always I am delighted when The Bluenose sails out of town toward the ocean, passing us on its way; when in its home port, it does so twice a day taking eager passengers on a two-hour trip to the ocean’s edge.
Another appeal is the slower pace of life. Then there is the long history of the province. Once here we find ourselves moving at a quieter pace, having more time to read, to visit friends, to hear music, and to watch films—in short, to simply chill out. Around us are many reminders of Nova Scotia’s rich past. Our little Cape was built in the 1840s. It was a subsistence farm constructed at a time when our peninsula was serviced only by ferry boat or dory from town—in fact, there was only a dirt road to Lunenburg until the 1950s.
Lunenburg is one of the oldest towns in Canada and its history, that includes the expulsion of the French Acadiens by the British and the recruitment of German Protestants to replace them, makes a part
of Canadian history here on our ocean side as well as over on the Fundy shores. Out of those old-world tensions a more rounded society has developed. The second oldest church in Canada, St. John’s Anglican in Lunenburg, beautifully embodies some of that history even as it now often serves as a venue for concerts, visiting choral groups and folk music.
Culturally we are rich indeed. Music festivals abound--most, including the Lunenburg Folk Harbour Festival, are within easy driving distance. The summer kicks off with the extraordinarily diverse Nova Scotia International Tattoo in Halifax (beginning in early July) while here we have our own lively Canada Day festivities in nearby Riverport; that event includes a very tasty fish fry and a small local parade. Events like Firemen’ Breakfasts, Old-fashioned Dinners and Lobster Dinners are regular features throughout the summer and during the year. Recently, though Lunenburg and Mahone Bay have added many fine restaurants. Here in the Feltzen vicinity we now enjoy three alternatives. Our old stand-by is Steve Chapin’s Ovens Natural Park (where there is music nightly), but now we have the Bistro at the Rose Bay Store and Becca’s Bayport Pub. Such riches are a great addition!
These are blessings to count and treasure. Having grown up in Toronto and Peterborough, I never thought I would be able to live by the ocean. Now I regard it as an essential part of the fabric of my life.