Enjoy Cherries Jubilee, but remember the flames can get quite high

I will always remember the first time that my father ordered Cherries Jubilee for us. I was six years old and sat in complete awe watching it be prepared tableside and before I knew what was happening the Maître d’ had set our food on fire.

I was instantly mesmerized by the blue flames dancing about the pan which soared above my head. I admired how the calm the Maître d’ was working the pan of ingredients as the flames slowly faded away and he began spooning out the soupy mixture filled with cherries over a massive bowl of ice cream.

I knew that what I was about to eat was going beyond special and with my first spoonful of slightly melted ice cream swirled in with the cherry sauce I was sent into a state of bliss which was further heightened when the heady flavour of brandy hit my senses and new that I too would one day master a pan of flaming food.

Cherries Jubilee was created by Auguste Escoffier in 1887 in honour of Queen Victoria’s 50th year on the throne and her love of cherries. Originally the recipe did not call for ice cream and was more like a preserve made simply of fruit sugar and brandy, but before long ice cream became a necessary component.

The Ontario Cherry harvest usually begins in late June when we see the arrival of sweet red and black cherries. In July we welcome in the Rainier cherry which is shortly followed by the smaller sour cherries.

The cherry is a fleshy stone fruit that is related to peaches, apricots and almonds all of which are members of the rose family. All cultivated varieties of cherries stem from the wild cherry native to Europe and Western Asia. There are two basic categories that cherries fall into, sour or sweet. The 300 varieties of sour cherries are typically cooked and served in pies, tarts or preserves while we enjoy the 1200 varieties of sweet cherries raw, juiced or dried.

The red pigmentation of Cherries and all similar red berries are rich in anthocyanin’s, which is a potent antioxidant and helps reduce inflammation and fevers. Cherries are also known for their ability to ease the discomfort of sore throats which explains why there are so many Cherry flavoured cough syrups.

Other than the Van cherry, all other cherry varieties that begin with the letter V or end with “vee” were developed for Ontario growing conditions at what is now the University of Guelph Research Station in Vineland, Ont.

Once picked cherries will not ripen any further. So when choosing cherries look for ones that are plump and firm with flexible green stems. Store them in the refrigerator uncovered in a shallow paper towel–lined container.

Pick up some cherries and try making this long forgotten recipe for Cherries Jubilee. Please have presence of mind that the flames may get quite high when cooking off the alcohol in the branding, pay attention to anything flammable above and around where you ignite the cherries. When the initial large flame has died down, a small blue flame will continue to burn and will require you to stir the cherries to gently expose the remaining alcohol to the flame. Ultimately you want the blue flame to burn as long as possible, burning off the raw alcohol while caramelizing the sugars and entertaining your guests.

Cherries Jubilee

Ingredients:

½ cup white sugar

2 tbsp. cornstarch

¼ cup water

¼ cup orange juice

1 pound dark, sweet cherries, rinsed and pitted

½ tsp. finely grated orange zest ¼ cup brandy

3 cups vanilla bean ice cream

Method:

Whisk together the sugar and cornstarch in a wide saucepan. Stir in the water and orange juice; bring to a boil over medium-high heat, whisking until thickened. Stir in the cherries and orange zest, return to a boil, then reduce heat, and simmer for 10 minutes. While the cherries are cooking, spoon the ice cream into serving bowls.

Pour in the brandy, and ignite with a long lighter. Gently shake the pan until the blue flame has extinguished itself. Spoon the cherries over the bowls of ice cream and serve immediately