The Peterborough Examiner

How to rock your tofu with cheese, eggs and even meat

Protein packed, there is no excuse not to give tofu a place of pride on your plate

- KRISTEN HARTKE

HERE’S THE TROUBLE with tofu, at least to some Western eaters: you can’t dip it in nacho cheese sauce.

Or can you?

Even as people have become accustomed to the idea of drinking soy milk lattes, the idea of eating tofu — which is, after all, just coagulated soy milk — can be a non-starter for many who see it as a weirdo ingredient limited to vegans or championed by Hippies Without Tastebuds.

In Western cuisine, tofu is not only viewed with skepticism, it tends to be practicall­y nonexisten­t in our culinary repertoire. But once we look at tofu as a protein that can be married with many other kinds of “typical” ingredient­s, including cheese, eggs and, yes, bacon, then there is no excuse not to give tofu pride of place on the plate.

Growing up, my consumptio­n of tofu generally came in the form of small bits floating in a bowl of hot-and-sour soup at the local Chinese restaurant, or glorious deep-fried puffs made by my friend Caroline’s Vietnamese mother after school, which we dunked, scalding hot, in fish sauce. For many years, I thought of tofu only as an Asian ingredient, rather than just another protein source that could be a part of my everyday kitchen, no matter what cuisine was on the menu.

That is, until I came across a pasta recipe in the classic cookbook “From a Monastery Kitchen” that incorporat­ed tofu and Parmesan. I can honestly say that it had never actually occurred to me to pair tofu with cheese; like seafood, it seems to be accepted that they just don’t belong on the same plate. But, surprising­ly, it turns out that the simple act of adding a sprinkling of freshly grated Parmesan to enhance tofu’s subtle nuttiness can be a real gamechange­r, even for avowed tofu-haters.

Over the years, my updated version of that recipe, Linguine with Broccoli and Tofu, has become a favourite of my vegetarian family — and my omnivore friends love it, too.

For those who want to increase their intake of healthy, plant-based proteins without necessaril­y giving up eggs, cheese and meat, creatively combining tofu with more familiar ingredient­s can be a painless, and tasty, way to take a more flexitaria­n approach. Extra-firm tofu can be easily crumbled into ground beef for hamburgers or thinly sliced and layered with Gruyère for a new take on a croque monsieur. Some might say it’s the cheese or meat that makes the tofu bearable, but — why not?

Water packed firm tofu can be a marvel of versatilit­y, whether marinated, grilled, baked, fried or puréed.

Because tofu is naturally mild, it takes well to marinades and is easily reimagined in dishes traditiona­lly made with chicken or even pork. Cut firm tofu into wedges and soak in tangy buttermilk before flouring, frying and slathering in a spicy buffalo wing sauce, served with a creamy dill flecked blue cheese dressing on the side. Marinate slices in Tabasco-and-honey-spiked soy sauce, then broil and top with a poached egg for Sunday brunch. Toss chilled tofu cubes with lemon juice and cracked black pepper to accompany bacon, hard-boiled eggs and avocado in a twist on a traditiona­l Cobb salad.

Silken tofu, the shelf-stable product found in aseptic packaging, is the perfect base for a rich chocolate mousse or savoury egg-free mayonnaise. It is easily adapted for use in cheesecake and pudding recipes, providing a lighter take on creamy desserts that can be a godsend for anyone with a sweet tooth who wants to have their cake and eat it, too — but with fewer calories, less fat and more protein.

Dragonwago­n blends silken tofu with coconut oil, almond butter and melted semisweet chocolate chips for a luscious mousse that can be topped with either dairy or non-dairy whipped cream, saying, “I’ve served it to people who thought they’d never be able to enjoy a dessert like that again and they literally had tears of gratitude.”

So pile that tofu high, Dagwood-style, onto your favourite deli sandwich. Wrap it in bacon, as the Japanese do, or whip it into a rummy piña colada. Splash it with sriracha, coat it in cheddar, barbecue it on a bun.

As for dipping it in nacho cheese sauce? Don’t mind if I do.

 ?? DEB LINDSEY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST ?? Linguine with Broccoli and Tofu.
DEB LINDSEY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST Linguine with Broccoli and Tofu.

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