Should I change my hair for winter?

You should do whatever makes you feel good, says The Kit’s editor-at-large

“In the summer, I love highlights in my hair. But now that the days are getting shorter and colder, am I supposed to go darker with my hair colour? ” —Carole, Toronto

I am guilty of doom scrolling as much as the next person, but I seem to have developed a new riff on the time-wasting, mood-crushing habit lately: checking the weather frantically and with compulsive frequency; sometimes — and it pains me to admit this — even cross-checking different apps until I get the outlook I want with a level of passion that people usually reserve for poring over horoscopes. I wasn’t always like this, but of course, the weather feels like it matters more now that it’s become the lever that controls our daily sanity-savers like walks and park visits.

So you’re not alone in feeling the weight of the shifting seasons this year — aren’t we all armchair meteorologists at this point? — and you’re also not alone in your temptation to deepen your hair colour. Noted Toronto-based hair colourist Jason Lee explains that many of his clients feel that same impulse. (And he has a lot of clients; I realized a while back that he’s the sought-after artist behind seemingly all my friends’ glossy manes.)

“The desire to deepen your colour makes a lot of sense: By this time of year, your hair is probably a bit bleached out from the summer, but now your skin is getting paler and you’re feeling washed out,” he says. A lot of women are looking for easier-to-maintain deeper shades that may be closer to their natural colour and that will carry them through the next few months — whatever may come. Blonde clients are asking for a root shadow to soften the look of regrowth, and the balayage technique is bigger than ever because it has a natural appeal.

He’s also spotted an altogether opposite trend though. “I get to know my clients really well and I’ve noticed that while some people are about self-preservation and feeling prepared when faced with the fear of another lockdown, some people are just looking for an instant way to feel better in the moment,” he explains. The latter crew isn’t turning to sombre shades to avoid feeling washed out; they are reaching for extreme, vibrant, joyful pigments like bright pink — maintenance and touchups be damned.

“People really use colour as a way of self-expression, and going without salon visits for months really played with the emotions of some people,” says Lee. (When he returned to work after the restrictions were lifted, some clients were so relieved that they showered his team with gifts like designer shoes, art pieces and baked goods. Yes, really.)

Because while his approach to hair colour is very technical — and we will get into that — he is adamant that finding the right hue is an emotional journey. “There a psychological approach. For example, certain people really resonate as a blond — and it's usually due to their personality more than their skin tone,” he says. “So I start there and then try to find a shade within that world that connects.”

So before you think about how you’ll look this winter, consider how you’ll want to feel when the days grow short and cold. Sure, darker hair might bring out your eyes, but what’s more important is that it will give you a boost of energy.

Whatever depth of tone you’re considering, know this: Lee says that the easiest way to avoid going wrong is to match the warmth of your hair to that of your skin. For example, if you have a warm skin tone, you can afford the same in your hair colour. If you don't, then you’re better off sticking with a cooler or more neutral shade.

Then, if you decide to go darker, determine if you’re able to do the deed at home or if you should be seeing your trusted stylist. “Before jumping from light to dark, you need to understand that it’s like painting a wall,” explains

Lee. “You have to prime first, right? In the same way, stylists first fill the hair, which is a step that serves that function. That missing step accounts for why, if you're doing it yourself at home, you run the risk of a real disaster — the hair can go grey or green.”

If you’re opting to visit your favourite colourist, talk about whether a few lowlights might be all you need to add coldweather-worthy dimension to your colour. If you’re set on the idea of colouring at home and just looking to indulge in a subtle shift, says Lee, stick to a demipermanent colour in a warmer gold or cinnamon tone to avoid going darker than you intended. “In the ’90s, people were colouring their hair pure black, and I know people still relate to that moment,” says Lee. “But, depending on your skin tone, unless you’re a rock star, it can come across really aggressive.”

(Also beware that you can’t necessarily rely on your tried-and-true shade of athome dye forever. “When you use it regularly, they deliver darker and inkier results. The next thing you know you're using a medium brown, but it has started to look black.” Hitting up the salon to colour correct it and get a fresh start is an easy fix.)

Regardless of your approach, at-home care is going to be vital to maintaining your look — and longevity is more important now than ever; just ask the patrons who ran to Lee’s salon with loafs and loafers after their enforced separation.

“Using the right shampoo for colour-treated hair is crucial,” says Lee, who suggests clients add moisture and protein to their hair after colouring. “It’s also important not to use too much heat, like blasting a flatiron, curling iron or blow dryer. That can actually open the cuticle, so the colour slips out.”

Instead, proceed gently and even skip heat styling when you can. Just think of all the precious minutes that could free up! I can suggest a few good weather apps that almost help banish bleak feelings, if you need a way to pass the time.