Sharks and speedboats

Multiple speedboats offer trips to the shimmering, turquoise Exumas. Powerboat Adventures provides comfy seating and orange, spray-proof raincoats. On Ship Channel Cay, it also owns a Robinson Crusoe-like lodge (which offers pricey overnight stays). We jumped off at Allan Cay, using sticks to feed grapes to burly iguanas. Then loudspeakers blasted us off to Ship Channel Cay with the Mission Impossible theme. The boat swerved dramatically as passengers screamed with glee.

Upon landing at midmorning, we were met inside the cabana by a grinning bartender proffering rum-doused Bahama Mamas and Yellow Birds at a fast clip. Meanwhile, large stingrays skirted the beach nearby.

Soon, they were gliding over our circle of lined-up toes, nibbling the mahi-mahi we fed them, and allowing us to touch their bumpy back ridges and satiny bellies.

However, shark fins knifed the vodkaclear water, and we were ordered back to shore. Our guide Remon shouted: “Seventeen today!” Scenes from Jaws were filmed nearby, but he said that there are no great whites here. Bahamian seawater is too warm for that, even in December. Ankledeep in the water, Remon entertained us by pitching mahi-mahi like baseballs, revving up the muscular nurse, lemon and reef sharks. Then he started flinging dried grouper, knotted to a long rope, to draw the terrifying and toothy creatures closer.

The sharks were eventually lured away by staffers. Remon called, “Come, snorkelers!”

But after the exhibition, only half the tour group went, even though it was part of the deal. We walked to a spot about 15 minutes away, where the sea life mostly consists of yellowtails and baby tuna nibbling the reefs, though one shark veered in lazily to check out our daughter.

At the cabana afterward, it was time for a bountiful buffet lunch of grilled fish, stewed