TIMELESS WALES ... WHERE YOU’RE NEVER SURE WHAT CENTURY IT IS
Beautiful countryside dotted with castles will have you wondering what century it is
I turn the kaleidoscope wheel with my finger and peer in. Glorious slices of colours sweep past.
After purchasing the hand-tooled object at an art gallery in Wales, I think about how much of that beautiful country I’d love to slip into a suitcase and fly back to Canada: the warmth of the people, the musical language, rugged pastoral landscapes, luxury hotels, charming tea shops, Victorian shopping arcades, castles, farm-fresh greens with heritage tomatoes, and a particular gin drink infused with herbs that I’d like right now, thank you.
Stepping into a lineup at the airport on my way over, I ask the man in front of me if this is the right spot. Yes, he says, I hope so. A Welshman returning home.
Soon I’m landing refreshed at Heathrow, having enjoyed British Airways’ World Traveller Plus, an upgrade that gives more personal
WELCOME TO CYMRU
space, a reclining seat and a meal worthy of a white tablecloth. And there’s my new friend, pleased to say “Bore da.” Good morning!
Amid heavy fog that made international news, we set off on the next leg of our journey, a short flight to Manchester. By the time my small group of visiting journalists crosses from England into Wales and the road signs change to Welsh plus English (Cymru/Wales), a hot brightness has made us don sunglasses and remove jackets.
We drive west across the northland to Colwyn Bay, the highway route flanked by low mountains dotted with lots of sheep. At some point in the year, it will be high season for sheep and there could be as many as three of the white cuties for every person in Wales!
Our destination is Bodysgallen Hall, a wonderful early 17th century country house hotel near Llandudno (bodysgallen.com) owned by the National Trust. Arriving in the early evening, there is still time to roam the extensive gardens and breathe in the lavender.
Later, from the casement window of my old-fashioned room, I look out. The sun is setting and in the distance Conwy Castle glows. This is the stuff of paintings and fairy tales.
Touring the castle the next day is like stepping into the past. In the 13th century, King Edward I flexed his military muscle and built castles throughout Wales, particularly along the coast and here in the north.
The village of Conwy viewed from this battlement is picture-perfect, featuring a boat-dotted bay and historical buildings on its winding streets.
After the imposing height of the castle, we come down to earth in front of the Smallest House in Great Britain. With its bright red door, you can’t miss it on the quay. We have fun posing, our heads above the top of the wee front door of this 6-foot by 8-foot home.
Our guide tells us the last resident, a 6-foot-3 fisherman, was forced to vacate the premises in 1900 when the dwelling was deemed too small for human habitation.
Take a peek inside, but watch your head!
Nearby, Betws-y-Coed is the gateway to trekking. The town is filled with outdoor stores and handsome grey stone B&Bs line its main street.
We pause to step into the Alpine Cafe. I expect Swiss decor, but instead find it filled with images of animals, mostly gorillas. There is even a big fake fella, which prompts me to donate a few pounds in aid of apes in crisis. (Alpinecoffeeshop.net)
Detour a bit west to visit Portmeirion, the fantasy village created by an eccentric architect after the First World War and the setting for the 1960s cult series The Prisoner. (Portmeirion-village.com)
Heading south along the coast and then well into the heart of Wales, we stop off at a 17th-century drovers’ inn-turned-pub and hotel in Tregaron, and find an unexpected jewel. The welcome at Y Talbot is sweetness itself. My comfy room has a great view of the town centre but the best part is the huge renovated bathroom. Drovers (sheep or cattle movers) never saw anything like this. (ytalbot.com)
HAY-ON-WYE BY THE BOOK
Then it is on to Builth Wells, in Powys county. All over this country, we travel through breathtaking scenery but this region is a little more wild, with sheep grazing almost sideways on hilly farmland and wild Welsh ponies at the side of the road.
Our destination? A former stop on the Mid-Wales Railway, Erwood Station, now an art gallery. The gallery is stunning. The kaleidoscopes stop us in our tracks but eventually we make our way further in.
Showcasing crafts, paintings and sculpture by local artists, the contemporary gallery has more than a touch of whimsy. (erwoodstation. com)
It’s a short ride from there to Hayon-Wye, renowned because pretty much every business in town sells books.
I spend some time in a crime/mystery shop called Murder & Mayhem and ask who is the most popular author.
Yup, it’s still Agatha Christie.
That night’s accommodation is nearby at Llangoed Hall. Set in the Wye Valley, Llangoed Hall is easy to fall in love with. My room there is the biggest I’ve ever stayed in (with a dining table, for gosh sake, plus a four-poster bed).
This elegant hotel has a long history that really takes off when, in 1912, architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis redesigned the mansion as a country house. A decade later he began creating Portmeirion.
In 1987, Sir Bernard Ashley (whose wife was renowned designer Laura Ashley) bought the property and later opened it as a hotel. These days, it’s under different ownership but many rooms still feature Laura Ashley designs.
The hotel is overseen with loving, meticulous care by Calum Milne. As well as being an Ashley family friend, Milne comes with his own pedigree as the great-grandson of Winnie-the-Pooh creator A.A. Milne.
You’ll really feel as if you’ve walked into Downton Abbey here. And don’t be surprised if you see Prince Charles — a lovely suite is always waiting for him there. (llangoedhall.col.uk) COSMOPOLITAN CARDIFF
We are reluctant to leave this beautiful place but it’s soon time to run off to the cosmopolitan capital, Cardiff.
This popular city (more than 18 million visitors yearly) is youthful and vibrant, but also has a medieval castle and gorgeous Victorian shopping arcades. The revitalized waterfront is anchored by the Millennium Centre arts complex, restaurants, speedboat rides and an unusual drawing card — The Doctor Who Experience.
My favourite coffee shop, the funky Coffee Barker, is in Castle Arcade. If you drop by, have a handmade crumpet for me.
Our hotel is the centrally located Cardiff Marriott (marriott.com/ hotels/travel/cwldt-cardiff-marriott-hotel). Saturday night — wading through what seems to be one rollicking hen party after another along the pedestrian-friendly streets — we seek out The Potted Pig for dinner.
Seated in the repurposed bank vault, I indulge in a tall glass of gin infused with herbs. It turns out to be just the right drink to toast this magical country.