This IPA takes an Indonesian spin on pale ale mythology
Field House Brewing makes a beer worth trying
The origins of the IPA style have become as steeped in myth as the beer is steeped with hops. The common thread is that the first India Pale Ales were an evolution of the pale ale style first brewed in Burton-upon-Trent during the mid-19th century.
These beers were brewed with more hops (a known preservative) and to a greater strength so they would withstand the journey by ship from Britain to India, where they were eagerly awaited by thirsty troops of the British Empire.
Abbotsford’s Field House Brewing has an interesting spin on this tale, claiming it was the Dutch who first made such a durable beer for export to Indonesia, which the Netherlands colonized before the British took control of India. It was the thieving Brits who took all the credit for the IPA style when the Dutch shared the recipe with them.
Field House — whose owner Josh Vanderheide is of Dutch ancestry — is now addressing this supposed injustice with its Eastern IPA (5.5 per cent ABV), where the “I” stands for “Indonesian”. The beer is packed with Galaxy, Kohatu and Nelson Sauvin hops from Australia and New Zealand (a relatively short distance from Southeast Asia), which bring to mind rich tropical fruits.
Appearance: Eastern IPA is a hazy amber colour with a dense, lightly creamy, white head that leaves some lace on the glass. 3/3
Aroma: Rich with moderately dank notes of tropical fruits — juicy pineapple, cantaloupe and guava, alongside tangerine and lime — as well as white pepper and spicy grains of paradise. The malt base is generously bready. 10/12
Flavour: From the get-go there’s a blast of tropical fruit, with lots of melon and pineapple along with brighter citrus notes. The malt profile becomes more pronounced in the middle, with a sweet breadiness that slowly intensifies to a light caramel quality in the finish. A gentle zing of spice comes through in the moderately bitter, long finish, where sweet and spicy notes linger long. 16/20
Mouthfeel: Juicy, soft and rounded. Moderate carbonation. 5/5
Final thoughts: It’s tricky to construct a full-flavoured, full-bodied and balanced IPA that is only 5.5 per cent ABV, but Field House has done it with some ease. 8/10 Final score: 42/50
Food pairing: Grilled or roasted chicken; mild to medium-spicy curries, including, naturally, Indonesian variations such as rendang.
Buy: From $9.45 (750 ml) at select stores in the Lower Mainland. (Eastern IPA is no longer sold in cans.) Jan Zeschky is a BJCP-certified beer judge.