California’s hipster desert hangout is back in fashion

Palm Springs a mecca for Modernist architecture, high-end shopping and four-season activities

In the 1950s and ’60s, it was a glamorous hideaway and party central for the likes of Bob Hope, Ronald Reagan and Frank Sinatra. Today, a sun-washed city 140 kilometres east of Los Angeles lists Leonardo DiCaprio and other Hollywood celebs among its new homeowners — a sure sign that, once again, Palm Springs, Calif., is the capital of cool.

On a recent trip, we discovered an intriguing blend of past and present, of quirkiness and luxuriousness, all basking under the desert sun.

ACCOMMODATION

Location, location, location! Smack-dab on the main strip, the Hyatt Palm Springs is the place to catch the downtown vibe. Modern, stylish and complete with its own version of Hollywood’s Walk of Fame, it is within steps of offbeat shops and vibrant restaurants. Right outside the front door every Thursday night, the VillageFest draws thousands to a street party featuring arts and crafts, food and live entertainment.

Step into the spacious lobby to discover a family-friendly escape where five storeys of open balconies shelter a trapezoid-shaped outdoor pool. The only all-suite hotel in the area, it boasts 197 units, each with its own sitting and dining areas, kitchenette, bedroom and private balcony. Hyatt Palm Springs: 285 North Palm Canyon Dr., palmsprings.hyatt.com.

FOOD

With a plethora of great restaurants to choose from, you could stay for an entire year and not make a dent in the list. One not to miss? Lulu California Bistro.

The fact they have served more than 2.5-million guests since opening five years ago speaks to the owners’ passion for creating captivating food with a dash of innovation. Diners will find a varied and value-priced menu and a sleek, mid-century Modernist ambience. Open from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. on weekdays and until 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. Lulu’s Happy Hour from 11 a.m. to closing has been voted the best in the desert. Lulu California Bistro: 200 South Palm Canyon Dr., lulupalmsprings.com.

SIGHTSEEING

A pink stucco wall envelops Sunnylands, a sprawling 81-hectare estate, which includes a breathtaking 1,858-square-metre main house, three guest cottages and a nine-hole golf course. In 1966, American ambassador Walter Annenberg and his wife Leonore built this as their winter home. For over 40 years, they entertained royalty, presidents, international business leaders and Hollywood glitterati. Old Blue Eyes married his fourth wife there.

Today, Sunnylands hosts high-level conferences and retreats. The visitor centre and gardens are open to the public; tickets can be purchased to tour the main house. For anyone interested in California mid-century Modern architecture, world-class art or magnificent gardens, Sunnylands is a must see. Sunnylands Center & Gardens: 37977 Bob Hope Dr., Rancho Mirage. sunnylands.org.

ACTIVITIES

The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway’s 80-passenger rotating tramcar whisks passengers from the desert floor of Coachella Valley to the top of Mount San Jacinto. It’s a thrilling 10-minute, four-kilometre vertical ascent up the continent’s sheerest mountain face.

Step out of the tramcar to a 30-degree drop in temperature, to 80 kilometres of wooded hiking trails and pristine wilderness and to views of the Coachella Valley and Sonoran Desert that stretch into forever. In winter, snap on snowshoes or cross-country skis for some fun in the snow. Any time of year, the return trip between the breathtaking cliffs is equally thrilling. Palm Springs Aerial Tramway: 1 Tram Way, pstramway.com.

SHOPPING

Visitors in need of a healthy dose of retail or resale therapy have landed in shoppers’ heaven. At the luxury end is El Paseo, a contemporary, palm tree-lined thoroughfare home to exclusive art dealers, world-famous jewellers and fashion designers for men, women, babies and even the family dog.

Downtown, Palm Canyon Drive is a mecca for anyone who loves vintage boutiques, consignment clothing stores and antique shops or any fan of California mid-century decor. El Paseo: theshopsonelpaseo.com. Downtown: palmcanyondrive.org.