The Province

Tret Jordan reinterpre­ts classics

Marine biologist-turned-chef offers sincere, honest style to diners at Homer Street

- Mia Stainsby

Chef Tret Jordan of Homer Street Cafe and Tableau did his tour of duty, starting early in his career at the late, venerable William Tell and Michelin-starred Pied a Terre in London as well as Bacchus, Opus Hotel and other restaurant­s. His cooking goes back to the basics of comforting bistro-style food, done well, especially the scrumptiou­s chickens coming off the massive fire-engine-red Rotisol Grande Flamme Olympia rotisserie. Q What motivates you as a chef? A I find inspiratio­n in the ingredient­s I use. What was the season, where was it sourced, how was it grown and harvested, how can it be prepared and served? The ingredient­s tell the story for me. Also, I find motivation in my team, that energy that 2 comes of cooking together under the kitchen’s fire. 1 How would you describe the food you like to cook? 1

This has naturally changed over the 1 years from when I first started cooking 1 as an apprentice up to now. The food 1 I like to cook and eat now is more sincere 1 and honest. 1 1 What might diners not know about 2 you? 1 My first career was in marine biology. Describe a couple of your most recent creations.

I like to take what may have been a classic dish or recipe and reinvent or alter it. What’s your favourite local ingredient and how do you use it?

This is tough. Every season brings products that are exciting to work with. I would have to say squash and pumpkin right now. They’re excellent for ravioli, purées, soups, salads. They can be baked, fried, grilled, you name it, and there are so many varieties to try.

If there’s one important piece of advice you might have for cooks, what might that be? Lose the ego. Taste, taste, taste. Sharp mind and sharp knives. Tret Jordan’s Pickled Chanterell­e Mushrooms

“Chanterell­e mushrooms are one of my favourite mushrooms. There’s something about their golden colour and aroma that is so exciting. I like to pickle them to help preserve the bounty, then they are ready, whenever desired, to add to a salad, omelette or garnish a steak or any meat. You can substitute any other wild or cultivated mushroom.”

cups (500 mL) cleaned, trimmed fresh chanterell­e mushrooms cup (250 mL) cider vinegar (or white wine or champagne vinegar) cup (250 mL) sugar cup (250 mL) water tsp (5 mL) mustard seed tsp (5 mL) coriander seed tsp (5 mL) fennel seed tsp (5 mL) black peppercorn sprig fresh thyme bay leaves tbsp (15 mL) kosher salt

Brush any forest debris off the mushrooms with a damp cloth. With a paring knife, trim just the ends and scrape the stem. Place into a bowl. Measure out the vinegar, sugar and water into a suitable pot. Add all the other ingredient­s to the pot and set on high heat. Once the pickling liquid comes to a boil, turn down and let simmer for 10 to 15 minutes to develop the flavour. Remove from heat and pour over the prepared chanterell­e mushrooms. Transfer to a jug or other container and refrigerat­e until chilled before using.

 ?? — PHOTOS: MILK COMMUNICAT­IONS ?? Tret Jordan of the Homer Street Cafe. He has worked at the late William Tell and Michelin-starred Pied a Terre in London as well as Bacchus, Opus Hotel and other restaurant­s.
— PHOTOS: MILK COMMUNICAT­IONS Tret Jordan of the Homer Street Cafe. He has worked at the late William Tell and Michelin-starred Pied a Terre in London as well as Bacchus, Opus Hotel and other restaurant­s.

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