The Province

Go ahead, get dirty with cauliflowe­r

Garlic breading gives healthy veggies a little pizzazz and a break from ‘clean eating’

- ELLIE KRIEGER

“Clean eating” describes a dedication to the most healthful, most pure ingredient­s.

But to me, it implies that foods that don’t pass as “clean” (who gets to decide, anyway?) are somehow soiled, and you have to choose between the two.

Personally, I like a little dirty with my clean, and this recipe is proof that you can have them both in a nourishing way.

I’ve been making one version or another of it for decades, well before “clean eating” entered the lexicon. It makes an easy, crowd-pleasing side that involves some kind of brassica — broccoli, Brussels sprouts as well as cauliflowe­r — that is simply steamed or roasted until tender and then treated to a contrastin­g crisp “dirt” of garlicky toasted bread crumbs.

The taste of fresh bread crumbs is well worth the small effort of whirring some whole-grain bread in the food processor and baking the crumbs.

You can do this alongside the vegetable if you roast it, as called for here, or you can make the bread crumbs up to two weeks ahead and store them in the freezer.

‘Dirty’ Cauliflowe­r

Servings: 6 Make ahead: The toasted bread crumbs can be refrigerat­ed for up to 2 weeks.

1 large head cauliflowe­r, cut into 1 1/2inch (4-cm) florets 4 tbsp. (60 mL) olive oil 1/4 tsp. (1 mL) plus 1/8 tsp. (0.5 mL) salt

11/2 slices whole-wheat sandwich bread, crusts removed 2 cloves garlic, minced Freshly ground black pepper Preheat the oven to 375 F (190 C). Toss the cauliflowe­r with 2 tablespoon­s (30 mL) of the oil and 1/4 teaspoon (1 mL) of salt in a mixing bowl. Transfer to a 9-by-13-inch (22.5-by-33-cm) baking dish, cover with aluminum foil and roast for 15 minutes, then remove the foil, return it to the oven and roast for 25 to 35 minutes, stirring once or twice, until the cauliflowe­r is tender and browned.

Meanwhile, place the bread in a minifood processor; pulse until the bread is reduced to crumbs. Spread them on a baking sheet. Bake for about 8 minutes — alongside the cauliflowe­r is fine — tossing once or twice until crisped and golden brown. Cool on the baking sheet; this will yield about 1/2 cup (125 mL).

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoon­s (30 mL) of oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, stir in the garlic and cook for 20 to 30 seconds, then stir in the toasted bread crumbs and cook for about a minute, until they are well coated, fragrant and further browned. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining 1/8 teaspoon (0.5 mL) salt and a few grinds of pepper.

Toss the seasoned bread crumbs with the cauliflowe­r just before serving.

 ?? — THE WASHINGTON POST ?? The taste of ‘dirty’ cauliflowe­r is well worth the small extra effort it takes.
— THE WASHINGTON POST The taste of ‘dirty’ cauliflowe­r is well worth the small extra effort it takes.

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