A sleepover in Singapore is quite surprising
GARDEN CITY: Enjoy lots of greenery, a view to the future
Having a five-hour layover is my idea of a living nightmare, and that came to mind after I booked a flight to Cambodia. However, rather than hang around the Singapore airport I tagged on an extra day. But I have two regrets: I should have stayed longer and I should have brought an empty suitcase.
Right away I noticed why Singapore bills itself as a “garden city.” Everywhere is green — and clean. (Not a piece of litter in sight. Is getting arrested for spitting chewing gum on the street an urban myth?) Leafy streets are flanked with lush gardens spilling over gravity-defying decks of skyscrapers. Smaller than New York City, this island of less than 300 square miles with a population of four million has 50 parks and four nature reserves. No wonder downtown has grown vertically, but in a good way.
The architecture, including my hotel, is astounding. The ParkRoyal on Pickering has marvellous sky gardens along balconies and walkways. It’s dubbed a “hotel within a garden” and the ‘hotel of the future.’ Much of Singapore is futuristic, particularly the Marina Bay Area.
To get my bearings and a birdseye view of the city I took a ride on the Singapore Flyer. At 165 metres (540 feet) high this giant observation wheel is bigger than the London Eye and boasts views as far as Malaysia and Indonesia on a clear day.
From here it’s an easy walk to Gardens by the Bay, 250 acres of park and its soaring “Supertrees” that could be the backdrop for a science fiction flick. I could have spent the day here, strolling two glass-domed, air-conditioned conservatories— a great way to beat the afternoon heat.
But here too is the iconic Marina Bay Sands comprising three hotel towers connected at the top by a ship-like roof terrace. It’s big and brash like a Vegas hotel but another outstanding view is worth the price of admission to the Observation Deck. If you want to splurge on a room, hotel guests can swim in the world’s largest rooftop swimming pool and gaze down at the skyline.
Closer to earth is the bar at Raffles Hotel, where the Singapore Sling originated. Here you can sip the legendary cocktail while eating peanuts and chucking shells on the floor without getting arrested.
Singers (AKA Singaporeans) are obsessed with food. Ask a cab driver to take you to his favourite hawker centre (AKA food courts) for chili crab. I had the messy delicacy at Jumbo Seafood at Clarke Quay, with a side of steam buns washed back with ice-cold beer. The place is hopping. Or if you’re craving fish porridge for breakfast get in line at the Maxell Food Centre, where Anthony Bourdain ate chicken rice. And barbecued satay from just about anywhere is a sure bet.
If you time it right, the Intercontinental Hotel has a dazzling weekend dim sum buffet at the Man Fu Yan restaurant. Come here hungry: dozens of hand-crafted dishes are offered. The place is packed with locals so it’s a good idea to make a reservation before leaving your hotel.
Before hitting another hawker centre, burn a few calories (and dollars) shopping on Orchard Road with its 22 shopping malls and six shopping centres. And there’s the night markets. The Bugis Street market sells a lot of junk and trashy souvenirs, but it’s fun and colourful and great for throwaway threads. If you want to seriously damage your credit card, the shopping mall back at Marina Sands is home to just about every international label and new designers. And Singapore, namely Sim Lim shopping centre, is the place for electronics. I found gadgets for travellers that I didn’t realize I needed. Who doesn’t need a portable battery or a new mirrorless camera?
Many airlines flying to Asia and Australia have stopovers in Singapore and its airport is probably one of the best layovers. It has all kinds of free amenities, orchids everywhere and mesmerizing Koi ponds. But if you can add a few days onto your trip, Singapore will likely surprise you.