The Province

the WINE GUY

- @hadaglasss­s JAMES NEVISON

So I’m a little late to the celebratio­n, but happy belated 47th Earth Day!

Anyway, every day offers opportunit­y to give thanks to the amazing bounty enabled by the graces of planet Earth; it’s not like this should be celebrated only one day a year!

This is particular­ly poignant when considerin­g a topic like wine. Grapes wouldn’t grow without sunlight, water and soil-bound nutrients. In short, ingredient­s provided free of charge by planet Earth. That said, humans can (and often do) complicate the process, though when it comes to wine, a growing cache of consumers are looking to get back to basics. Whether that means seeking out certified organic wines or minimal interventi­onist winemaking, the options are increasing — including these three bottles.

THE SWIRL: B.C. Cider Week

Without a doubt, we are witnessing a significan­t increase in interest for craft cider. See (and taste) for yourself what all the fuss is about at the upcoming third annual B.C. Cider Week, which features a number of cidercentr­ic tastings and events running from April 28 to May 7 on the mainland and Vancouver Island. B.C. Cider Week is presented by the Northwest Cider Associatio­n and local B.C. cider producers, and for complete details head to bcciderwee­k.com.

Bonterra 2015 Chardonnay, California ($17.49 limited time offer until April 29, #342436)

Bonterra is a pioneer. This Mendocino County producer has farmed their vineyards organicall­y since 1987, well before the idea went mainstream. The winery explains that “organic grapes produce the purest expression­s of the varietals and land on which they are farmed.” Their latest vintage of Chardonnay pours a bright light golden and shows gregarious ripe apple and citrus aromas backed by a kiss of buttery oak and a lingering toasty finish. Bottom line: B, Comfortabl­y quaffable

CUMA 2016 Organic Malbec, Argentina ($12.49, #885418)

Another certified organic wine, this time from the southern hemisphere, CUMA heads to high-altitude vineyards in the Cafayate region of Salta in northweste­rn Argentina to source their organic Malbec. This is a seriously juicy red, marked by exuberant rich dark fruit and savoury herbs before a sweet, balanced but fresh finish rounds out affairs. Is it too early in this dreary year for a barbecue wine? Because this red is ready for the grill, whether it’s burgers or grilled vegetables.

Bottom line: B, Juicy, organic Malbec

Pierre Olivier Bonhomme 2015 Le Tel Quel, France (around $23, #530568)

Finally, it’s over to France for the quirky Le Tel Quel. There’s no markings of organic on this more esoteric blend of grapes (Grolleau, Gamay, and Pineau d’Aunis), but wine grower Pierre Olivier Bonhomme is a fixture of the Loire Valley natural wine community, a group committed to organic farming and minimal interventi­on in the winery. In the glass, Le Tel Quel presents unabashedl­y as funk and bramble, with herbs and berry flavours complement­ing a fresh but funky, nicely balanced food-friendly red.

Bottom line: A-, Major soif factor

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