PARKSVILLE AND QUALICUM BEACH BECKON
New vibe meets traditional charm at resort towns of Parksville and Qualicum Beach
PARKSVILLE — It was a significant anniversary, a time to look both backward and forward.
Back upon 45 years of good times, and ahead to many more. Airline tickets to southern California, sumptuous hotel rooms and a retro convertible to do the Pacific Coast Highway drive — all booked and ready to go. Except the celebratory couple wasn’t. It just didn’t seem to be the right thing to do.
So a celebration played out in a B.C. backyard three hours from Vancouver — the long-established resort towns of Parksville and Qualicum Beach on Vancouver Island’s mid-east coast. There’s tourism history here, all right, but winds of change gently tickle the shoreline trees, too.
THE DESTINATION
Parksville lies a half-hour north of Nanaimo’s Departure Bay ferry terminal (Qualicum Beach is another 15 minutes up the road).
At almost 350 hectares, Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park has been pulling visitors to Parksville since it opened in 1967.
Where Tofino’s winds and tides rage on the opposite side of the Island, Rathtrevor’s placid waters and kilometres of tidal pools and flats have drawn generations of children and relaxed parents.
There are plenty of affordable accommodations and mini-golf operations to attest to the family-friendly atmosphere, but a couple of signature Parksville properties signal a shift to modern times.
The Beach Club Resort has muscled its way onto prime sandy territory at the base of the town, with a tall, urban confidence that looks decidedly forward — toward the beach and boardwalk that link today’s indulgent holidaying with Rathtrevor just around the corner. Rooms are large, fully equipped and hip, with plenty of combinations to suit extended families. The Pacific Prime Restaurant & Lounge on site handles celebrations nicely.
A little further south sits the grand dame of Parksville resorts — Tigh-Na-Mara Seaside Spa Resort. The spa part came after the resort became known for the rustic charm of its log cabins nestled in acres of seaside woods — but it’s now a big part of the equation with a top Canadian ranking and matching spa bungalows. Perhaps in a look ahead (and over at the neighbouring Beach Club), Tigh-Na-Mara is undergoing some renovations that balance rustic with some of today’s sheen.
THE RIDE
The California retro roar was out, and replaced by a Honda Accord Hybrid Touring. It may run almost silently, but screams 2017 eco responsibility — so fits perfectly with the West Coast forest vibe. Modern luxury, a powered moonroof to simulate convertible action, and mileage that hovered from 6.1 to 6.4 litres of fuel per 100 kilometres. BC Ferries did half the driving! Score one for the march of technology.
THE ADVENTURES
What would be more unnerving — a wet and chilly spelunking plunge into the pitch-black bowels of the Horne Lake Caves, or dinner in your bath robe in a room full of strangers who are also not wearing underwear?
(Don’t bother trying to deny you own a bathrobe — one will be supplied.)
Turns out neither is as scary as it sounds.
The enthusiastic cavers at Horne Lake Caves 40 minutes away will have you scrambling over subterranean boulders, marvelling at all sorts of ancient food-named calcite formations (bacon, popcorn, etc.) on cave walls and even climbing an underground waterfall — but it will happen at your pace and comfort level. Just don’t scream when the lights go out. Tours range from an introductory one-hour session to five-hour “extreme” experiences.
Aches and pains that may crop up underground can be dealt with at Tigh-Na-Mara in the form of Dip and Dine. Loll around in the resort’s Grotto Spa pools, maybe get a massage, then pad upstairs in your sandals and robe for “endless tapas” at Treetop Tapas & Grill. Everyone up there — save the quietly efficient servers — is dressed the same way.
Sixteen sumptuous courses of heavenly food roll by; if you want more, just loosen the tie on your robe and order repeats.
CHANGE IS BREWING
The Parksville/Qualicum demographic has traditionally skewed … well, let’s just say not young. The mild climate and amenities attract retirees like a fire sale on river cruises, but there’s a new crowd in town — young families escaping big city life and prices.
Nothing telegraphs the arrival of the Hipster like craft breweries. Enter the fine young men of Mount Arrowsmith Brewing Company.
Sales manager Dan Farrington and head brewer Dave Woodward are locals preaching the craft beer gospel from their spiffy new brewery in an industrial park just off the highway in Parksville.
Farrington says the offerings include a pale ale, hoppy IPA, a blonde and an orange hefeweizen.
He’s catering to younger demographic, by Parksville standards anyway.
“Eighteen to 60,” he says with a smile. “It might be the first craft beer some have ever tasted.”
Down the road in Qualicum, however, there’s a guy with two first names who’s been spreading craft beer love for years; and his new “nano-brewery” earns a place in your affections.
Dave Paul moved to the area from Whistler in 2005, and lived in a tent while he built a 12-foot by 16-foot “love shack” to move his wife and daughter into while he tackled building a real house.
A veteran bartender/server, he acquired uncommon brewing skills during those lean years, and now shares the fruits of his labours at LoveShack Libations.
It’s strictly a one-man show in a small industrial unit just north of Qualicum, but the sublime taste of his Crafty Cream Ale, Killer Kolsch, D.P.A. (Dave Paul Ale) and Precious Porter make it worth the finding (check his website for visiting hours).
The cool T-shirts will make you stand out as an early adopter, too.
The local brewing lads are being warmly embraced by big outfits like the Beach Club and TighNa-Mara, as well as local dining hubs like Bread and Honey Food Co. and Bistro 694.
All of which demonstrates that the area is not simply the crossroads you pass through on your way to Tofino; but a destination ripe for past, present and future fun.