The sound of Philadelphia, a DIY tour
MUSIC: Exploring the musical legacy of the city of brotherly love
Philadelphia doesn’t make it easy for music fans to explore the city’s vast and rich musical legacy, but you can cobble together a do-it-yourself tour of the sights, sounds and neighbourhoods that nurtured talent. Other places for inspiration: local news site Billy Penn puts out a Black Music Map every year, and fans and experts offer tours through Jane’s Walks.
Here are some spots to swing by (not all are open to the public):
Marian Anderson Historical Residence Museum, 762 South Martin St.
The contralto was the first African-American to sing at New York’s Metropolitan Opera. The museum is in the house she bought in 1924. It contains photos, books, memorabilia and films. Open daily 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Monday-Saturday.
Mario Lanza Institute and Museum, 712 Montrose St.
The museum houses a variety of memorabilia from the beloved tenor. Open by appointment only; deposit required at least two weeks before the tour, 215-238-9691.
Sigma Sound Studios, 212 N. 12th St.
The studio founded in 1968 by engineer Joe Tarsia helped create the sound of Philadelphia — rich layers of vocals and orchestral arrangements. It churned out hits like The Trammps’ Disco Inferno and The Three Degrees’ When Will I See You Again. Many hits from the songwriting team of Gamble and Huff were recorded here, including The O’Jays’ Love Train. David Bowie recorded parts of his 1975 album Young Americans there. The studio has been sold and the interior demolished, but the exterior remains.
The Uptown Theater, 2240 N. Broad St.
The Uptown rivalled New York City’s Apollo Theatre, and was a major stop on the Chitlin Circuit — a network of clubs with mostly black owners and audiences during segregation. Anyone who was anyone in R&B and soul played there during the theatre’s heyday in the 1950s and ’60s. Guided tours are offered by appointment only, 215-236-1878.
Site of American Bandstand, 4548 Market St.
Dick Clark hosted the popular American Bandstand at WFIL-TV in west Philadelphia in the 1950s and ’60s. It became a cultural touchstone for teenagers eager for the newest pop music and dance craze. The building now houses a small business development centre, but the studio is still intact with memorabilia highlighted around the building. Tours can be arranged in advance.
The John Coltrane House, 1511 N. 33rd St.
The renowned sax player lived here from 1952 to 1958, playing with the Miles Davis Quintet for part of the time. The house became a national historic landmark in 1999 but has fallen into disrepair.
The Showboat/Bijou, 1409 Lombard St.
The Showboat was a tiny club in the basement of the Douglass Hotel which hosted greats like Miles Davis, Dizzy Gillespie and Thelonious Monk. It was later renamed The Bijou Cafe, which became a hotspot for up-and-coming artists, including U2 and Prince.
The Royal Theater, 1524 South St.
This was the city’s first black-run theatre dating from 1919 and a centre of African-American nightlife for decades, hosting the likes of Fats Waller, Cab Calloway and Billie Holiday. It closed in the 1970s and despite plans to transform it into a music museum or venue, the cost was deemed too high.
Philadelphia International Records, 309 Broad St.
It’s now an empty lot, but visitors with keen imaginations can envision the building where Gamble and Huff collaborated on hits like the O’Jays’ Love Train, Billy Paul’s Me and Mrs. Jones and McFadden & Whitehead’s Ain’t No Stoppin’ Us Now.
The Checker Cafe (later, the Checker Club), 2125 Ridge Ave.
This dilapidated building is the shell of the last jazz club along what was once the bustling Ridge Avenue jazz corridor, which included The Pearl and the Blue Note. Pearl Bailey worked there as a waitress.