The Province

Add kernel of creativity to your cob

From the tried and true to the exotic, plenty of ways to enjoy sweet corn before summer is gone

- KASEY WILSON

As we approach the end of summer, fresh sweet corn is a culinary consolatio­n.

Today’s hybrid corn is much sweeter than the starchier, deeply corn-flavoured kind of my childhood. You can find that old-fashioned taste in organic sweet corn, which is worth seeking out at farmers markets, but any type of fresh corn will shine in today’s array of recipes.

Foolproof Corn on the Cob

Cook’s Illustrate­d magazine shares this clever method in its September issue. By avoiding overcookin­g, it ensures a tender, tasty result. Do not add salt to the water. It will take so long to penetrate cobs that it’s just not worth it. Season cobs at table instead. Serves: 4 to 6 6 cobs sweet corn, husks and silk removed Butter, softened Salt and pepper

Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large Dutch oven. Turn off heat, add corn to water, cover and let stand for at least 10 minutes and up to 30 minutes.

Using tongs, transfer corn to large platter and serve immediatel­y, passing butter, salt and pepper separately.

Barbecued Corn on the Cob with Chive and Garlic Butter

This recipe adapted from Feast: Recipes and Stories from a Canadian Road Trip by Lindsay Anderson and Dana VanVeller (Appetite by Random House, 2017) produces sweet, smoky kernels bathed in salty herbed butter. You may substitute any combinatio­n of fresh herbs.

Serves: 8 to 12 1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped garlic scapes

1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped chives ½ tsp (2 mL) salt ½ cup (125 mL) butter, softened 12 ears sweet corn, still in husks Flaky sea salt

In a medium bowl, beat the scapes, chives and salt into the butter until well combined. Transfer the butter to a large sheet of plastic wrap and form into a log. Wrap and refrigerat­e until firm, about 1 hour or up to 2 days.

Pull back the husks of the corn, but keep them attached. Pull off as much silk as you can and then rub the ears under cool running water to rinse away remaining silk. Pull the husks back up over the corn and tie with thin strips of husk. Soak in cold water to cover for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat the barbecue to high (450500 F, 230-260 C). Turn the barbecue down to medium heat and place the prepared corn on the grill rack. Remove the butter from the refrigerat­or and cut into 12 slices.

Grill the corn, turning by quarter-turns, until husks char, 15 to 20 minutes. Set aside off heat until cool enough to handle. Husk the corn, top with slices of butter, sprinkle with sea salt if desired and serve immediatel­y.

Vij’s Bengali-Style Black Bean and Corn Curry

This is as close to an Indian vegetarian chili as you will find. Blanched fresh corn kernels have the best flavour and texture, but you can substitute frozen organic corn, thawed. Serve with any rice pilaf. (Adapted from Vij’s Indian: Our Stories, Spices and Cherished Recipes by Meeru Dhalwala and Vikram Vij, Penguin Canada, 2016).

Serves: 6 ½ cup (125 mL) cooking oil 1 tsp (5 mL) cumin seeds 1 tbsp (15 mL) ground panch phoron (Indian five-spice blend)

1 bunch green onions, trimmed and chopped

2 cups (500 mL) tomato purée, fresh or canned 2 tsp (10 mL) salt 1 tsp (5 mL) turmeric 1 tsp (5 mL) ground cayenne 1 cup (250 mL) heavy cream 1 cup (250 mL) water 3 cups (750 mL) fresh corn kernels (about 4 cobs)

3 (14-oz. or 398-mL) cans black beans, drained and rinsed

Heat the oil in a large, heavy pot on high for 1 minute. Sprinkle in cumin seeds and allow to sizzle for 20 seconds or until darkened. Sprinkle in the panch phoron and allow it to sizzle and foam for 5 seconds. Add onions, stir well and sauté for 2 minutes. Stir in tomatoes and reduce heat to medium.

Add salt, turmeric and cayenne, stir well and cook for 4 to 5 minutes until the oil glistens on the tomatoes.

Pour cream into a medium bowl and stir in about 2 tablespoon­s of the hot tomato mixture. (This step prevents the cream from splitting.) Pour the mixture back into the pot. Pour the water into the bowl that held the cream and stir. Empty this water into the pot. Stir in the corn and black beans, increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes.

Kitchen hack: To neatly remove corn kernels from the cob, place a small bowl upside down inside a larger bowl, and steady the wide end of a corn cob on the overturned bowl. Slice downward with the back of a paring knife to remove the kernels. The smaller bowl elevates the cob so you can get clean slices and the larger bowl catches the kernels and juice.

 ??  ?? A turn on the grill adds a smoky accent to Lindsay Anderson’s and Dana VanVeller’s barbecued corn on the cob with chives and garlic butter. Feel free to substitute whichever fresh herbs that you like.
A turn on the grill adds a smoky accent to Lindsay Anderson’s and Dana VanVeller’s barbecued corn on the cob with chives and garlic butter. Feel free to substitute whichever fresh herbs that you like.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada