Chef gave up law for the kitchen
Jim Vesal of Virtuous Pie is devoted to serving ethical, sustainable, delicious food
After flirting with a career in law, Jim Vesal devoted himself entirely to food, in particular ethical, sustainable food. Today, Main Street’s Virtuous Pie specializes in hand-crafted pizza and ice creams made entirely from plants. His empire is now expanding to Vancouver’s soulmate city, Portland, Ore.
What and who have motivated and inspired you as a chef?
Growing up, we didn’t have a lot. My mom raised me and my sister by herself and worked two, sometimes three jobs in order to support us. We subsequently never really went out to eat, or ate very luxuriously. When I first started taking cooking classes in high school, I was really exposed to more global cuisines, and I loved it. I loved the spice, the flavours, the textures. That really was the initial hook for me, being able to try new and different foods.
How would you describe the type of food you like to cook?
I like to cook really honest, rustic food. My cast iron is the one thing I wouldn’t leave home without. I like deep bold flavours, and big portions you can dig into with a spoon, a piece of bread, or even your hands. I like lots of spice and lots of heat in general, and I try not to be too fussy with the food I cook.
What might diners not know about you?
I was planning to be a lawyer before cooking took over my life. I studied for six years in university on my way to law school and made a last-minute U-turn into cooking when I realized my passion for food was outshining my passion to have a good argument.
Describe a couple of your most recent creations.
We just launched a double chocolate salted caramel ice cream flavour that basically tastes like chocolate pudding on steroids. We use a very high quality cacao powder that is sourced by an awesome local company called Cacao Consciousness. The powder comes from an organic heirloom variety of cacao beans directly from farms in South America, and it makes a huge difference.
What’s your favourite local product and how do you use it?
My favourite product is a chickpea miso made by a company called Feeding Change. The miso is soy-free and has this amazing umami flavour that adds so much complexity to any dish. I will literally put it in everything, sauces, rubbed over veg, and sometimes I will even sneak a bite of it with a spoon.
If there’s one important piece of advice you might have for cooks, what might that be?
Ask lots of questions, work hard and always keep learning, especially learn from the person who’s job is directly above yours. The best piece of advice I ever got — thanks, Steve Binning — was to learn and do the job of anyone ahead or above me in the kitchen. This way when the promotion came, I would have already been doing the job.
Lentil Linguine Bolognese
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1 cup (250 mL) diced onion 1 garlic clove, minced 1/2 cup (125 mL) diced carrot 1/2 cup (125 mL) diced celery 1 6-in sprig (15 cm) rosemary, de-stemmed and minced 1 bay leaf 1/4 cup (60 mL) olive oil, divided 5 tbsp (75 mL) red wine 1/4 cup (60 mL) chopped dried porcini 2 tbsp (30 mL) chickpea miso 2 tbsp (30 mL) nutritional yeast 14 oz (400 mL) canned plum tomatoes 1/2 cup (125 mL) canned or cooked lentils 1 lb (454 g) dried linguine 1/4 cup (60 mL) Almond Parmesan (recipe below) 8 fresh basil leaves
▶ In a sauté pan on medium-low heat, warm 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil. Add onion, garlic, celery, carrots, bay and rosemary. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. ▶ Increase heat to medium, add red wine and reduce. Add porcini, miso and yeast. Add tomatoes, breaking them up with a spoon, along with 1 cup (250 mL) water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes uncovered. ▶ Continue cooking until sauce has reduced and has desired consistency. Remove bay leaf and add lentils. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mash gently. ▶ Meanwhile in a large pot, bring 4 quarts (4 L) of water to a boil. Add 1 1/2 tbsp (22.5 mL) salt and add linguine. Cook according to package directions just until al dente, cooked but firm. Reserve 1 cup (250 mL) cooking water. ▶ Drain pasta, return to pot and dress with 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil. Add sauce to pasta and mix together, loosening with cooking water, if needed. Divide pasta between bowls and top with Almond Parmesan, basil and extra sauce.
Almond Parmesan
1/2 cup (125 mL) blanched almonds 2 tbsp (30 mL) nutritional yeast 1 tsp (5 mL) Himalayan salt 1 tsp (5 mL) garlic powder 1 tsp (5 mL) onion powder
▶ Place all ingredients into a food processor and pulse about 10 times (be careful not to blend too much, as you don’t want it to become a nut butter). Store extra in an air-tight container in the refrigerator.