The Province

French skills and Mexican spice

Cesar Madrigal loves to cook up food to make people happy at La Taqueria

- Aleesha Harris

You’d be forgiven for thinking Mexican food is Cesar Madrigal’s favourite cuisine to create.

The Mexico-born chef, who is the operationa­l lead at La Taqueria, does love to create traditiona­l fare such as burritos and tacos, his true culinary passions lie in something that’s, well, a little more French.

Madrigal took time out of the kitchen to talk cooking, being Canadian and his family’s favourite summertime meal.

Q What and who have motivated you as a chef?

AFor as long as I can remember I’ve loved to make people happy through food. I started baking cookies and pies at a very young age, so young I can’t even remember – there are pictures of me at four years old kneading dough and baking bread. I guess I always liked people’s reactions to the fact that something I made tasted good. At a young age, my mother had me in charge of cooking meals for my older brothers while she was away on business trips. I can’t pinpoint one single person who inspired me – it’s always been a cluster of the people I looked after. I’ve also always been attracted to the idea of being a chef: working at a restaurant, the hustle and bustle of it, the respect you get from your peers as you walk into the restaurant every morning – and the respect and admiration you get from people as you “wow” them with your creations.

How would you describe the type of food you like to cook?

I, of course, grew up surrounded by Mexican food, and did not leave Mexico until I was 19. However, I was trained in very classic French techniques and if I were to pinpoint a “type” of food I like to cook, it’d be that. But that does not mean I often cook Coq au Vin at home or that I have Croque Madames every day. I often tell people that as long as you master the technique, you can turn it into whatever you like, meaning you can always use Mexican ingredient­s to braise a lamb shank. Those are the type of things I love to cook.

What might diners not know about you?

I am extremely proud to be a Canadian! As one, I love to support my community as much as I can and I volunteer as much as I can. I moved to Canada shortly after turning 19 and just like anyone else who looks for a better future, I left my entire family behind. I struggled, and getting to where I am now was the result of a lot of work, sweat and tears, and at times — many times — all I could afford to eat was pancakes.

Describe a couple of your most recent creations.

Have you tried our burritos at La Taqueria? If not, what are you waiting for? The burritos we have to offer are a result of months of developmen­t, and I must say, I am extremely proud of the finished product we wound up with. Of course, with the traditiona­l Mexican flavours and ingredient­s we are known for. Besides that, we have a Ceviche right now at all La Taqueria locations: daily made fresh snapper cured in lime juice, for those who are looking for a quick bite to eat while enjoying this hot weather we’ve been having as of late. It won’t last for long though.

What’s your favourite local product and how do you use it?

It’d be hard to name one. We have so many in B.C., from produce to proteins. At home we eat tons of salmon, mainly because it is so versatile. You can grill it, fry it, poach it and turn it into salmon cakes. This time of year we love to eat as much fruit as we can possibly get our hands on – among my favourite are fresh, local cherries that are super sweet and loaded with flavour. My wife loves a cherry and basil sorbet I make for her, and asks me for it every summer.

 ??  ?? Cesar Madrigal is the operationa­l chef of La Taqueria in Vancouver.
Cesar Madrigal is the operationa­l chef of La Taqueria in Vancouver.
 ??  ?? Red Snapper Ceviche by chef Cesar Madrigal of La Taqueria.
Red Snapper Ceviche by chef Cesar Madrigal of La Taqueria.

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