The Province

the WINE GUY

- JAMES NEVISON

There’s nothing wrong with zagging when others zig. Actually, it can be rather invigorati­ng. Thus, while many focus on January detoxes, cleanses, and well-intentione­d healthful living resolution­s, I will propose a call to arms — or at least an embracing of bubbles.

Permit me to make a modest propositio­n: Make 2018 the year sparkling wine takes up regular rotation in your wine life. In moderation, of course. Sparkling wine is fantastica­lly fun and amazingly diverse; it’s the tried-and-tested de facto wine pairing option that won’t disappoint. Plus, there’s no time like the present to get into the groove, so chase away the January blues with January bubbles.

Jaume Serra Cristalino Brut Cava, Spain ($12.99, #551218)

Admittedly, if sparkling wine is going to become a regular go-to wine selection there needs to be a well-priced option. Consider this your easygoing, everyday bottle of bub. Despite its modest price, the Cristalino Cava is produced following the traditiona­l method, a labourinte­nsive process of using secondary bottle fermentati­on to give the wine its effervesce­nt kick. A blend of the three classic Cava grapes (Macabeo, Parellada, and Zarel-lo), it’s crisp, it’s citrusy, and it sells at a price that won’t make you think twice, whether you decide to pop it open with midweek Chinese takeout or add OJ during a weekend brunch. Bottom line: B+, Super value sparkler

JoieFarm 2014 Sparkling Brut, British Columbia ($20.99, limited time offer until Jan. 27, #31796)

A quintessen­tial B.C. bubbly blend (well, as quintessen­tial as our young wine industry can get), this mélange of 90 per cent Riesling and 10 per cent Chardonnay from Naramata Bench’s JoieFarm pours a deep, bright gold colour with extremely vigorous bubbles. Aromas of citrus and orchard fruit on a richly textured, nicely developed stance yield to a bold and fresh, toasty finish. Pair with anything briny or salty, be it panko-encrusted fried oysters or a nice hunk of cheese. This is great value, particular­ly at the reduced price.

Bottom line: A-, Fulsome fizzy

La Gioiosa Et Amorosa Rosea Spumante Brut, Italy ($19.99, limited availabili­ty at private wine stores)

Featuring a fetching rose-petal colour in the glass, this vibrant Italian Spumante is a blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc grapes, offering aromas of candied apple, flowers, and pear. The wine’s name loosely translates as “march with joy and love,” which is both a fitting overall descriptor and a worthwhile lesson to live by. This is a fun and friendly squat bottle of bubbly; it’s lighter overall, with an easy finish, and ready to share with a crowd. Bottom line: B, Foodfriend­ly fizz

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