The Province

Victoria bound? Don’t miss out on this walking tour

- JANE MUNDY

If you travel frequently, chances are you’ve taken a walking tour. Not only does it give a city more character, it’s also an opportunit­y to meet other travellers with similar interests, like art and architectu­re, history and culture, and food. Besides getting a little exercise, the benefit of walking tours is that they make you stop walking and learn a few things, or maybe stop and nibble. And you don’t need a passport to walk this way in Victoria.

Having lived in Victoria for a decade, I thought I knew the city inside and out. Wrong. I met Dave Mason, with his company Come See Victoria, outside the Visitor Centre at the Inner Harbour. “Guess what was originally built here,” he said, reaching into his backpack for a folder of laminated photograph­s (this walk is illustrate­d with 15 archives photos). Something to do with customs or immigratio­n? “This art deco building was a gas station, built in 1931. And across the street, where the Empress Hotel stands, was once a swampy bog before the harbour was dredged and mixed with gravel from Fernwood,” said Mason with a grin. I learned a lot in the next two hours. I was historical­ly inspired.

“Victoria’s downtown has a wealth of 19th century buildings,” said Mason, adding that people in Victoria love their heritage. “How many Victorians does it take to change a light bulb?” he quipped. “Four, including three to form a committee to save the old light bulb.” It’s always fun to have an entertaini­ng guide. And I learned to look up. Bastion Square and Harpo’s nightclub was a regular hangout back in the day, but I never noticed Sir Matthew Begbie’s home and the ornamental brickwork. Or how many times I

walked over these bricks along Government Street, not knowing they are engraved with the names of early pioneers and settlers, never noticing the 125-year-old gaslight in Trounce Alley. “Every building has a story,” added Mason, and he can certainly tell those stories.

Maybe you’re the type of person that the mere mention of a walking tour means too many streets to meander before you start thinking about lunch. If so, A Taste Of Victoria Food Tours with Andy Olson is right up your alley. He suggests you bring an appetite. As well, Victoria has the second-highest number of restaurant­s per capita in North America — so many choices with such little time. Within two hours we had eight tastings, from meatballs to macarons. We started at the Hudson Public Market (“Olive the Senses” was a big hit with all ten of us, and I brought

home several little bottles of olive oil and balsamic vinegar and a heavenly butternut squash seed oil) and ended at Rogers Chocolates. “I work with 16 vendors, so we can easily do a vegan tour,” Olson said, as I tucked

into a crispy chicharon (deep-fried pork rind). “I was a patron of all these places and I had taken food tours in over 40 countries before I got the courage and capital to quit my tech job and start my own company,” said Olson. Passionate, informativ­e and efficient, Olson peppers his tours with a little history of Chinatown and the Empress Hotel, where we end the tour, bellies full.

Most people living in B.C. are looking for experience­s off the beaten track ; they want to visit local neighbourh­oods, eat local food and wine. Even if you’re familiar with Victoria, ToursbyLoc­als can take you places that only the locals know about. Sara Cooke, Director of Communicat­ions, says this Vancouver-based company has grown since 2008: it now matches travellers with 2,421 local guides in 155 countries, about 1,000 cities. Some guides offer driving

tours, while others focus on walking tours. And bonus, your canine is welcome — if you’re behind the wheel.

“A few years ago, I took my kids (then 7 and 10) to Victoria and hired Mark Egan for a few hours,” said Cooke. “He took us on short, fun trails that incorporat­ed tree-climbing (the kids loved the twisty Garry Oaks!), and just enough hiking to get us to some beautiful viewpoints. We’ve returned to Victoria a few times since this trip, and the spots Mark showed us have become family favourites; we can’t visit the city without hiking up to Anderson Hill Park, or ducking into the ‘Ivy Cave’ along Dallas Road.”

From the top of Gonzalez Hill, Egan and I and my dog Lizzy walked down to McNeill Bay from Gonzales Hill, and not a soul in sight. I too will return to these spots.

 ?? — JANE cUNDY ?? A view from the top of the picturesqu­e Gonzalez Hill. With no other soul in sight, you can enjoy a peaceful walk here.
— JANE cUNDY A view from the top of the picturesqu­e Gonzalez Hill. With no other soul in sight, you can enjoy a peaceful walk here.

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