the WINE GUY

THURSDAY, JUNE 7, 2018

South Africa has always encompassed a unique spot in the world of wine.

This is not just from a geographic perspective — though admittedly looking at South Africa on a world map points to its relative vinous isolation — rather, the uniqueness references the “Old World” wine sensibilities that meet “New World” wine growing approaches and production.

This traditional-yet-different approach has seen many label South Africa as the “Middle World” of wine. Expect an influx of the modern side of South African wine this month, as a special wines feature takes place at 60 B.C. Liquor Store locations throughout the province.

THE SWIRL: WINES OF SOUTH AFRICA CONSUMER TASTING

Free in-store tastings complement this month’s South African wine feature, including one on June 8 at the B.C. Liquor Stores Park Royal Signature Liquor Store (Park Royal North, West Vancouver) from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. During the event an array of South African wines will be sampled alongside cheese and charcuterie from Granville Island’s Oyama Sausage Co.

The Vinecrafter 2017 Chardonnay, South Africa ($8.99, #304360)

Not surprisingly — given the time of year — the featured wines weigh heavily toward fun and being grill ready. This means a focus on value-oriented and fruit-forward bottles. Case in point is The Vinecrafter Chardonnay, an exclusive offering for the British Columbia market. Fresh and fruity? Check. Easy to get into? Check. Under $10? Check. It’s on the lighter side and pretty straight forward, but it certainly pairs well with backyard bocce and any fish or chicken on the grill.

Bottom line: B- Light and easy, summer breezy.

Riebeek Cellars Collection 2016 Shiraz, South Africa ($12.99, #124950)

This wine is tailor-made for the braai. For lack of a more complete translation, braai (pronounced “bry” to rhyme with “dry”) is Afrikaans for “barbecue” or “roast,” and is as much of a social pastime as it is a feast. South Africans take their grilling sessions seriously, so it is not surprising that many of the country’s wines take particularly well to smoke and fire. This Shiraz’s ripe, overt fruit cuts through char, its spice and smoke work well with peppery marinades, and its easygoing finish doesn’t bog down the palate.

Bottom line: C+ Fruity and food friendly.

Spier 2016 Signature Merlot, South Africa ($13.99, #129715)

Showing that you can have your fruit and your structure too, Spier’s latest vintage of Merlot walks a tasty line between gutsy, juicy dark fruit, integrated toasty oak, and savoury herbs. As an aside, perhaps the best place to sip this Merlot would be while visiting the winery’s farm and hotel, which is an amazingly picturesque and serene setting. But until a trip to South Africa is possible, it’s fine to settle into your own lounger with a glass, ideally paired with a plate of grilled leg of lamb or robust sausages.

Bottom line: B+ Rich but elegant.