The Province

the WINE GUY

- Contact James: @hadaglass JAMES NEVISON

Another year, another birthday. Canada Day has rolled round once again, and from a wine perspectiv­e there is only one sensible thing to do. It’s time to toast our nation.

Now call me conservati­ve or a classicist, but when a celebratio­n is in order there’s only one type of wine in my glass. That would be sparkling wine, and fortunatel­y the domestic wine industry has fully embraced bubbly — to the point that this year you can raise a glass of Canadian sparkling wine literally from across the country — from coast-to-shining-coast.

THE SWIRL: CHAMPAGNE AND CAVIAR 2018

Speaking of sparkling wine, why not keep to the theme and the celebratio­n by attending the upcoming Champagne and Caviar tasting? Billed as “a taste of decadence,” the 23rd annual Champagne and Caviar event is once again hosted by Liberty Merchant Company and takes place from 7 to 9 p.m. on Thursday, July 5 at the Vancouver Rowing Club (450 Stanley Park Drive). Tickets are $29.99 and available at any Liberty Wine Merchants location, with all proceeds benefiting amateur sports in British Columbia. For complete details head to libertywin­emerchants.com.

Unsworth Vineyards Charme de L’Île, Vancouver Island (from $25, limited availabili­ty through the winery and select private wine stores)

Let’s start our bubbly showcase on the West Coast. And by “West Coast” we’re talking all the way west. For when it comes to producing wine, the westernmos­t point is Vancouver Island, which is where you’ll find a handful of island wineries making Charme de L’Île sparkling wines. The name is a designatio­n reserved for island bottles made using 100 per cent Vancouver Island grapes. In Unsworth Vineyards’ case this is a non-vintage blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Sauvignett­e that is lighterbod­ied and fresh, with citrus and herb aromas complement­ed by a touch of funk and a crisp finish. Bottom line: B, Great aperitif wine

Township 7 2015 Seven Stars, Okanagan Valley ($29.97, limited availabili­ty through the winery)

A blanc de blanc sparkler made from 100 per cent Chardonnay grapes following the méthode traditione­lle format of secondary bottle fermentati­on, the older 2015 vintage is indicative of the 18 months this wine spent en tirage, or in contact with yeast sediment, as it developed character and flavour. The final result is an enthusiast­ically toasty, brioche and citrus-scented sparkling wine that shows richness and depth yet comes across quite tart and tangy. This is great oyster wine, whether they’re on the half shell or in a po’ boy. Bottom line: B+, Rich and tangy

L’Acadie Vineyards 2014 Vintage Cuvée, Nova Scotia ($34.99, #16541)

Finally, it’s way over to the East Coast (well, almost as far east as the country goes!) for a Nova Scotian sparkler. L’Acadie Vineyards is a pioneer producer in the small but dedicated Annapolis Valley scene, and the winery’s Vintage Cuvée is a blend of certified organic Nova Scotia-grown L’Acadie, Seyval, and Chardonnay grapes made using the traditiona­l method. Featuring good toasty character with lemon and baked apple touches, this robust and creamy sparkler finishes fresh, almost saline, on the finish. Bottom line: B+, Pair with fried chicken

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