the WINE GUY
To really get into learning about wine, nothing beats a vertical tasting.
It’s one of the most enjoyable (and educational) ways to try wine — though it doesn’t happen nearly enough, likely because it requires a wee bit of patience and foresight!
A vertical wine tasting is simply different vintages of the same wine made by one winery. It facilitates evaluation of how a wine changes from year to year, not to mention how a wine develops over time — which is, after all, one of the more exciting, special aspects of wine appreciation.
Vertical tastings are like catnip for wine writers, so when a three-year vertical arrives to be sampled the opportunity must be taken. Plus, this vertical isn’t just from any winery; it’s three years of Bartier Bros. Semillon, and Michael Bartier (the winemaker of the two brothers/partners behind the winery) is known for his interest and care with the Semillon grape.
THE SWIRL: PORT MOODY RIBFEST
The Rotary Club of Port Moody is getting ready to once again host the 2018 Port Moody Ribfest. Taking place from July 20 to 22 at Rocky Point Park, this community event features three days of delicious barbecue, live music, craft breweries, and family entertainment. General admission is free, though new for this year is a private seating, Lexus VIP Zone. For complete details head to portmoodyribfest.ca.
Bartier Bros. 2015 Semillon (no longer generally available, search the back of shelves or ask friends!)
It’s pretty cool that all three bottles (vintages) are made from grapes sourced from the same vineyard. This would be Cerqueira Vineyard, between Oliver and Osoyoos on the lower side of Black Sage Road in the south Okanagan, which has 1.3 acres dedicated to Semillon vines and is farmed by Don and Michael Bartier. Though unfortunately no longer readily available at retail, a few years in the bottle has revealed a rich and smooth, balanced wine with aromas of flowers, lemon skin, and mineral notes. 2015 was a hot and dry vintage overall, and it shows in this deep and robust, almost oily Semillon. Bottom line: B+, Foodwise, think fish and seafood
Bartier Bros. 2016 Semillon ($17.99, #245910)
The current release 2016 Semillon pours light golden, clear, and bright. Colourwise it’s the darkest of the three, which is interesting because typically white wine darkens with age. Already quite developed but showing firm acidity, the 2016 maintains the citrus and mineral qualities but adds more herbal and toasty undertones. All the Semillons in this vertical (and indeed all white wines produced from Cerqueira Vineyard grapes since 2012) are made by spontaneous fermentation using indigenous vineyard yeasts. Bottom line: B+, Unctuous white
Bartier Bros. 2017 Semillon (expected $17.99, not yet released)
The 2017 vintage was largely declared excellent overall for the Okanagan Valley, hinting at the potential for the as-yet-released 2017 Semillon. Currently, characteristic citrus, waxy, floral, and mineral qualities are met with keen acidity. This white is a little tight at the moment, but all indications point to a bottle that will open gracefully and gregariously over the years to come. So be sure to grab a couple bottles, both for the cellar and for another vertical to come.
Bottom line: B+, Awesome right now with grilled lemon grass chicken