the WINE GUY JAMES NEVISON

Without fail, around this time each year my tastebuds start tingling for cider. We’ve fully moved on from the stone fruits of summer, progressed past the apex of transitional prune plums, and arrived upon the bounty of apples and pears that mark crisp evenings and the dew-on-the-morning-windshield days of Autumn. Hence my dreams of fermented apple juice.

And thanks to the ongoing expansion of quality local craft cider, this seasonal association has warranted a bonafide annual look at interesting and exciting ciders produced from B.C. orchards — including this week’s three picks.

THE SWIRL: UNWINED VANCOUVER ISLAND

The third annual UnWined event takes place in Victoria from 6 to 9 p.m. on Sept. 27 at the University of Victoria’s University Club. Organized by Make-A-Wish British Columbia and Yukon, this year’s event promises an evening of food and wine complemented by silent and live auctions along with raffles and door prizes. Tickets are $75 and include beverages, food, parking, as well as entertainment — and all money raised goes to granting wishes for Vancouver Island children facing critical illness. For details and to purchase, go to www.makeawishbc.ca/unwined-victoria.

Windfall Jackpot Cider, Vancouver ($6.50 for 500mL, available at select private liquor stores)

A “years long” hobby of cider making has evolved into Windfall Cider, the passion of Nathaly and Jeff Nairn. The Vancouverbased operation’s first cider is Jackpot, and it’s billed as a “dry craft cider made from a premium blend of B.C. dessert apples.” Featuring deep, rich apple aromas underscored by a hint of funk, this is a tart, leaner style of cider that finishes fresh with a lick of balancing residual sugars. It pairs well with a variety of dishes, from a cheese plate (go heavy on cheddar!) to roast chicken. Bottom line: B, Easy allaround cider

Dominion First Principles Cider, Summerland ($8.50 for 500mL, available through the cidery and at select private liquor stores)

Dominion Cider Co. is a passion project founded by three friends (Mike, Robin, and Luke), started because “we wanted to create something from scratch, with our hands, on land that we steward.” Everything at Dominion is done by hand, from picking apples to bottling the final fermented product, and their First Principles plays as an homage to this simple (and honest) focus on quality. A wildfermented blend of juice from English bittersweet and heritage B.C. apples, this tart and tangy cider is crisp and engaging, with a lip-smacking finish featuring evident tannins.

Bottom line: A, Vibrant

Brickers Frambo Dry Cider, Sechelt ($8 for 500mL, available at the cidery and select private liquor stores)

Based on a five-acre farm in West Sechelt, the Bricker Cider Co. is a familyowned and operated cidery that prides itself on only using B.C. apples and yeast in making their cider. Well admittedly, in the case of their tangy Frambo B.C.-grown raspberries are also incorporated into the mix! The result is a dark pink potable dominated by bright raspberry aromas that is rich and off-dry to start, with a drying sensation leading to a crisp, lingering tartness overall. Pair with fried foods in general — or goat cheese bruschetta. Bottom line: B+, Fruit

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