The WINE GUY
If you’re looking for a lively local wine conversation, try asking what grapes are best suited for B.C. To be fair, it’s a tough question for a young wine industry, and the likely diverse (and opinionated) responses highlight the topic’s complexity.
Should we aim for a few “star” grapes? Or is it better to let everyone do their own thing, creating a veritable “swamp mix” of vineyards? I won’t purport an answer. However, the other day I was reflecting on the overall success of local Syrah, particularly from the province’s southern vineyard sites.
In various wine tastings and competitions, a number of B.C. Syrahs have stood up (and out) alongside the global competition. Which led me to consider: If Syrah is faring so well locally, what about its white wine compatriots?
Now Syrah is largely synonymous with France’s Rhône Valley, and when it comes to grapes used in Rhône white wine production, Viognier is considered a standout (case in point, the ruggedly ethereal wines of Condrieu).
Thus, regarding white wine, it seems fair to also explore the northern Rhône by way of southern B.C.
THE SWIRL: B.C. ICONIC RED WINES TASTING COMPETITION
Switching shades, the 11th Annual B.C. Iconic Red Wines Tasting Competition takes place 7-10:30 p.m. on Wednesday, Nov. 14 at the Sutton Place Hotel (845 Burrard St., Vancouver). Nearly 20 of B.C.’s most highly regarded Bordeaux-style wines (ranging in price from $35 to $135) will be tasted blind, with participants submitting their best choices and top overall finishers subsequently announced. Tickets are $89 (plus fees) and include a $20 purchase credit to Sutton Place Wine Merchant. Contact James: @hadaglass
TIME 2017 Viognier, British Columbia ($22.99, limited availability through the winery and select private stores)
Viognier is still quite a niche grape in B.C. Current stats from Wines of British Columbia peg the grape at 223 acres planted, one-fifth the acreage of Pinot Gris. This means production is small and bottles can be harder to pinpoint. For example, TIME Winery produced only 340 cases of their latest vintage of Viognier; but the good news is it was just released. Showing characteristic perfumed, overtly floral and tropical fruit aromatics, overall this is a lush and textured Viognier. Time in oak lends a sweetish, toasty profile for this robust white that pairs well with poached halibut and creamy pasta sauce.
Bottom line: B “Buxom Viognier.”
Township 7 2017 “Raju Vineyard” Viognier, British Columbia ($24.97, available through the winery)
The trick with growing Viognier is that the grape needs to be fully ripened to show its best, leading to longer hang time (and growing angst) in the vineyard. This approach can work well in the warmer climes of the south Okanagan, and indeed Township 7 relies on the Raju Vineyard near Osoyoos for their tropical, peachy and downright vivacious Viognier (498 cases produced). It has both engaging texture and lip-smacking freshness — try serving with chicken curry, but mind the spice.
Bottom line: B+ “Vibrant Viognier.”
Bottega 2016 Viognier, British Columbia (from $23.90, limited availability at private stores)
Finally, we again return to low-yielding vines near Osoyoos for the artisanal, hand-picked and whole bunch pressed Bottega Viognier. Only 1,580 bottles of this enticing white were produced, and the wine offers citrus, orchard fruit and floral notes in an overall lighter style with a hint of spice and heat to end. This goes great with takeout rotisserie chicken, but take care to not serve the wine too cold — a mere chill facilitates the wine’s best aromas and flavours. Bottom line: B “Enticing
Viognier.”