Make pasta magic with four simple ingredients
New Eataly book provides tips, techniques and recipes for the versatile Italian staple
Lidia Bastianich, the acclaimed Italian chef and author, was honoured at a wine dinner I attended a few years ago at La Terrazza restaurant.
I was seated next to her at the head table, and because I arrived first some guests thought I was Lidia. When I told her later about the mistaken identity, she exclaimed, “That’s because we’re both so beautiful!” That evening spent in her charming company is one I won’t soon forget.
One of Bastianich’s many roles is as a U.S. partner in Eataly, the international group of Italian food halls, and she contributed to How to Eataly: A Guide to Buying, Cooking and Eating Italian Food (Rizzoli, 2014), one of my favourite cookbooks. (Here’s a tip from that volume: Pizza should be eaten with a fork and knife until only a small portion remains; then it’s acceptable to pick it up with your hands.)
The folks at Eataly are back with another mouth-watering book, this one called Eataly: All About Pasta: A Complete Guide with Recipes (Rizzoli, 2018). It was hard to choose, but I picked one recipe I know you’ll love. It’s a simple classic made with crushed black pepper that makes a memorable start to a meal. The second is a favourite of mine — a shortcut ravioli that will inspire you to stock won ton skins in your refrigerator at all times.
SPAGHETTONI CACIO E PEPE (Thick Spaghetti with Crushed Black Pepper) This simple classic is anything but understated. With so few ingredients, the quality of each is key. Use authentic Pecorino from Lazio, the region where Rome is located, or from Tuscany or Sardinia. Spaghettoni is thicker in diameter than regular spaghetti. It’s worth seeking out at a specialty market or online for the hearty, rustic texture it lends the dish. (Adapted from Eataly: All About Pasta.)
2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter
2 tbsp (30 mL) whole black peppercorns, or more to taste
Coarse salt
1 lb (454 g) spaghettoni
1½ cups (375 mL) freshly grated Pecorino Romano, or more to taste
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Heat the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Grind the peppercorns very coarsely and add them to the butter.
Warm a large pasta serving bowl. (The easiest way is to add some of the boiling water for the pasta, swish it around in the bowl and discard.)
When the water is boiling, salt it generously and add the pasta. Cook until al dente. Quickly lift the pasta from the pot with tongs, letting it drain for an instant, then drop it into the saucepan. Mix the pasta with the butter until well coated. Transfer it to the warmed serving bowl and immediately scatter on 1 cup (250 mL) of the grated cheese, tossing it in quickly. As you mix, sprinkle on a spoonful of hot pasta cooking water to moisten and unify the pasta and sauce. Taste and add more pepper and/or cheese as desired.
Serve immediately in warmed bowls while the spaghettoni is very hot. Serves: Six as a first course
WALNUT AND GORGONZOLA RAVIOLI Won ton skins — thin egg-noodle wrappers — are available in Asian markets and in the produce department of most supermarkets. They can be kept tightly sealed in the refrigerator for about two weeks. Toast walnuts in a 350 F (175 C) oven until golden, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often.
½ cup (125 mL) ricotta cheese
½ cup (125 mL) crumbled Gorgonzola cheese
2 tbsp (30 mL) plus 1/3 cup (80 mL) toasted chopped walnuts (divided use)
Freshly ground pepper
24 won ton skins
½ cup (125 mL) butter
½ cup (125 mL) grated Parmesan cheese
Fresh basil (optional)
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
Meanwhile, prepare the filling by mixing the ricotta and Gorgonzola cheeses with 2 tbsp (30 mL) walnuts and pepper to taste. Set aside.
Arrange 12 won ton skins on a work surface. Have a small bowl of tap water and a damp tea towel at hand.
Drop 2 generous teaspoonfuls of filling in the centre of each of the 12 won ton skins. Using your finger or a pastry brush, dampen the top edges with water. Spread the damp towel over all to prevent drying. Uncover the filled won ton skins one at a time, top each with another skin and press the edges to seal.
Drop the ravioli into the boiling water and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until they rise to the surface. Remove ravioli with a slotted spoon and place 3 on each serving plate.
Melt butter in a saucepan and heat walnuts in the butter. Spoon butter and walnuts over each serving. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and garnish, if desired, with fresh basil. Serves: Four as a first course
Kitchen Hack: How to eat long pasta
There’s no need to use the bowl of a spoon to handle strands of spaghetti or linguine. Instead, insert a fork into the tangle of pasta, tilting it at a 45-degree angle toward the side of the bowl. Twirl slightly while pulling upward toward the rim of the bowl. Then lift the fork quickly, lean in and pop the pasta in your mouth. (Adapted from How to Eataly.)