Island hot spots offer getaways close to home
Lots of ways to relax and revel in Courtenay and the Malahat
Whether you’re desperate for a wellness reset or want to chill with friends over some great food and wine, get on island time in Courtenay.
Cycling is the best way to explore a new place, especially on electric bikes. We recently joined Laurel Cronk, owner and operator of Island Joy Rides, and cruised around Comox Valley for the afternoon. We breezily transitioned from flat trails along the Courtenay River to city hills, meandered country roads and sampled the local food scene. The area is also rich in history. The seaside trail passed the Royston wrecks where 14 ships, including two 19th century windjammers, were deliberately sunk to build a breakwater in Comox Harbour.
To keep our energy up we stopped at Hot Chocolates, a 34-year-old bakery and pastry shop whose handmade artisanal chocolates are shipped worldwide.
“We become part of people’s traditions,” said manager Michele Henry.
After one bite of salted caramel dark chocolate, I can taste why.
Next stop was the Wayward Distillery, home of Krupnik. All their spirits are honey-based. “We create food and booze from Mother Nature,” said co-owner Dave Brimcombe. A complimentary tasting includes a tour and chat about the distillation process. (We returned the next day for cocktails.)
Back in the saddle, we coasted along country roads to Comox Valley Mushrooms, where Stoyan (a former software engineer in Bulgaria before his current mycologist career) showed us shiitake, pearl oyster and lion’s mane mushrooms incubating and growing in fruiting rooms.
Our excursion ended a few kilometres later at the Kingfisher Oceanside Resort and Spa, emphasis on spa. In addition to myriad treatments, the spa features the unique Hydropath where a hydrotherapy concierge guides you through a course of pools and jet sprays of varying water temperatures in a warm basement cave. At the final stop you rub handmade salt scrub all over and soak in individual hot tubs before floating upstairs to the relaxation room.
We swanned over to Kingfisher’s Ocean7 Restaurant for a superb dinner. Our chilled prawn and black-sesame purée appetizer was so amazing we ordered another. And the sea scallops with white truffle gnocchi is memorable.
We strolled the Serenity Gardens, wine in hand, and sat by one of several fire bowls before slipping into sleep by gentle ocean waves.
Three blocks of eclectic and funky shops in turn-of-thecentury buildings comprise charming downtown Courtenay, and not one big-box store or chain eatery.
The local favourite is the Atlas Café, and the patio is the town’s hot spot. Lunch was so terrific, generous portions of local meats, seafood and veggies, I’d come back for breakfast and dinner. But another favourite, Locals Restaurant at the Old House Hotel & Spa (originally built in 1938), was on the agenda. Chef Ronald St. Pierre’s passion is evident with products sourced from local suppliers.
We nabbed a table on the garden patio overlooking the Courtenay River and since there was a slight chill in the air our server thoughtfully brought us cosy wraps.
The Old House is appropriately billed as Vancouver Island’s best kept secret.
There’s nothing old about the rooms: spacious and elegant with fully-equipped kitchens and balconies overlooking historic gardens with black rabbits hopping around.Book a relaxation massage at Ohspa, another local favourite.
VILLA EYRIE
Need another day? You’re a short drive away from the Villa Eyrie, an Italian-style villa atop the Malahat Summit, 1,880 feet above sea level.
Opulent suites overlook Finlayson Arm and you’ll likely spot eagles at eye level.
Alpina Restaurant is par, if not topping, Vancouver’s best restaurants. We opted for the five-course tasting menu expertly paired with local and Italian wines. Service was outstanding.
The Villa Eyrie also offers classic cars for rent. How about revelling in a 1980 red Alfa Romeo Spider or a 1970 Mercedes convertible, just $125 for eight hours? Drive the Vancouver Island Motorsport Circuit in a new Ferrari and return for a five-course Italian dinner. Bellissimo!