THE WINE GUY
Summer has yet to officially begin, but I am officially in a summer state of mind. Perhaps I’m just looking for some sunny ways, an excuse to embrace a cheery disposition in the face of ongoing challenges.
Whatever the rationalization, summer means lager season! And while a proper pilsner or other straight-up lager will never go out of style, as my eyes scanned the shelves scouting summer-savvy beers, I couldn’t help but notice a trend toward intriguing — at-times downright quirky — lagers.
THE SWIRL: VIRTUAL HOPPY HOUR
Want to learn more, or talk about, lagers? While for most it’s still relatively tricky to get out to the pub for a pint, from 6 p.m. to 7 p.m. every Thursday B.C. Ale Trail is hosting a Virtual Hoppy Hour on its Instagram channel. Each week is hosted by a B.C. Ale Trail representative alongside (virtually) special guests from British Columbia’s craft beer community. Check out @bcaletrail.
Slow Hand Beer Company Svêtlý Ležák 12 Czech Premium Pale Lager, Vancouver ($17 for 4-473mL cans, take-out from the brewery or delivery through beervan.ca)
Hard to pronounce but easy to enjoy, the reality is that Svêtlý Ležák is not really a quirky or odd lager at all. But it is rather unique in that it is a traditional Czech-style pale lager, the likes of which you’d typically see in the Pilsen region, not so much in the Pacific Northwest! Pouring a rich golden in the glass, this is a fulsome lager featuring citrus and floral aromas, with an unabashed underlying malt presence. It’s assertive, with a bold and bitter stance leading to a crisp and hoppy finish. Pairing-wise, it makes a fine foil for fried foods or grilled sausages.
Bottom line: B+
No wimpy lager here!
Backcountry Brewing Mah Na Mah Na Barrel Aged Lager, Squamish ($13.29 for 4-473mL cans, #23818)
Lager aged in barrels? Admittedly, at first this felt like a “fancification” of my revered basic lager principles: crisp, sessionable, lip-smacking. But then I tried Backcountry’s Mah Na Mah Na, and I fully embraced the intention. The bold and brisk lager characteristics still shine, yet the time spent in wood adds perspective. With 10 weeks lagering in neutral oak barrels, Mah Na Mah Na is a rich, deep golden-hued lager with a wisp of oak. Made with German Pils malt and Saaz hops, this unfined and unfiltered lager leans to the rich side, albeit with a requisite fresh finish.
Bottom line: B+
Refreshingly oaked
Steel & Oak Brewing Savasana Lager with Salted Lemons and Cucumber, New Westminster ($6.49 for 650mL bottle, #94830)
A new collaboration beer between New Westminster’s Steel & Oak Brewing and Powell River’s Townsite Brewing, Savasana tastes remarkably as advertised. Which is to say that a pleasant saline citrus from the preserved lemons is evident alongside a cooling, cucumber sensation — leading to a crisp, slightly peppery finish. Altogether it’s an engagingly off-kilter, refreshing lager — almost like an adult electrolyteimbued potable. This is a beer that makes you think as you sip, refreshing the palate on the patio, not to mention a fun partner for fish tacos as well.
Bottom line: B
Exotic and crisp