The Southwest Wire

Homemade doughnuts latest COVID cooking trend

- LAURA CHURCHILL DUKE

“Ultimately, you can't go wrong with a doughnut.”

These are wise words from Venessa Cavicchi Downing, co-owner and retail operations and media manager for Cavicchi's Meats in Upper Tantallon, N.S., whose store not only sells quality meat but also uses it in their doughnut production.

Cavicchi's most popular doughnut flavour is a maple bacon doughnut, which she says is all about using the right bacon - Cavicchi's, of course - along with cooking it just right.

“The balance of sweet, smoky, and savoury is a shockingly delightful combinatio­n,” says Cavicchi Downing.

Emily Kennedy, a selfprocla­imed doughnut connoisseu­r in Kentville, N.S. is a huge fan, saying these doughnuts are the combinatio­n of everything she loves – doughnuts and bacon.

“Given that the bacon is smoked right on site,” says Kennedy. “It gives them added flavour and that extra special touch. It also means I can get everything I need - the fixin's for a meal and dessert.”

Doughnuts, regardless of flavour, have always been popular, says Terri Tremblett, owner of Crumbles with a Twist Bakery in Charlottet­own, P.E.I. - a trend that's only grown in the past year. Although not a main order for her, she says that is mostly because she makes other delicious treats, and sometimes it's hard to choose.

“At times, they may have taken a back seat to the popularity of cupcakes, but doughnuts are a nostalgic treat that always comes around again,” says Tremblett.

DIY TREND

During the pandemic, many have turned to doughnut making at home to recreate this nostalgic goodie.

According to Dave Penny, owner of Deadly! Mini Donuts, which can be primarily found at the St. John's Farmers' Market from May to Labour Day, the secret to successful­ly making homemade doughnuts is patience.

Penny, who uses a doughnut machine, says it's all about troublesho­oting, as the machines somehow have minds of their own, he says.

For those who don't have access to a machine, he recommends baking doughnuts at home rather than deepfrying them.

Tremblett agrees, saying she never uses a deep fryer. Instead, she suggests purchasing a few doughnut pans and baking your doughnuts in the oven. Her doughnut pans are like a muffin tin and each makes six.

Cavicchi Downing's biggest doughnut-making tips are to use quality ingredient­s and to ensure the oil is fresh if deep frying.

When making, them, she says, take your time and enlist help.

“If you're going to go to all the work to make homemade doughnuts, enlist a friend to help,” she advises. “Make a ton and save yourself the trouble of making a mess again by freezing some to defrost and eat later.”

If baking them in the oven, Tremblett says it's an easy process.

A few secrets, she says, include making sure the pans are sprayed with a non-stick cooking spray and that the batter is spread evenly into each cavity in the doughnut pan to ensure even baking.

Also, if making them gluten-free, keep in mind flour blends can vary depending on the brand you choose, so it may be necessary to add additional liquid to the batter.

UNIQUE TWIST

After baking, it's time to experiment with flavours. Cavicchi Downing uses the changing seasons to pick different flavours and ideas. She's seasonally used items like waffle cones, brownies, toasted marshmallo­ws, fresh lemon, candied oranges, or even basil and mint from their garden as toppings.

“It's whatever works that day,” she says.

Besides deep-frying or baking them in the oven, there's another technique the home cook can use: an air fryer. Seana Collins from Port Williams, N.S. recommends spraying oil on both sides of the doughnut and baking them for approximat­ely 15 to 20 minutes. The result is a doughnut about threequart­ers the size of a standard doughnut that ends up being very moist with a crispy exterior, she says.

Collins uses a vegan recipe that includes half chickpea flour and half all-purpose flour. This recipe takes longer to air fry, at 30 to 45 minutes.

This combinatio­n has created her best doughnuts.

Sharon Churchill Roe, from Hants Border, N.S., also uses her air fryer to make doughnut fritters, which she says turned out better than regular doughnuts.

Start with any of the abundant recipes available online - she says the yeast ones work much better than the cake-like ones (vanilla dip or fritter versus sour cream glazed). Make the dough as directed but cook them in the air fryer at about 350 degrees for four minutes per side. Dunk each donut in a glaze when they are finished baking; otherwise, they will taste like bits of bread.

Whatever or however you end up making them, remember to take lots of pictures and share them, as many home cooks have been doing recently. As Tremblett says, “doughnuts are very photogenic.”

OLD-FASHIONED SUGAR DOUGHNUT (GLUTENFREE AND DAIRY-FREE)

Crumbles with a Twist Bakery, Charlottet­own, P.E.I.

Ingredient­s:

1 1/2 cups gluten-free allpurpose flour

3/4 cup natural cane sugar (or granulated sugar)

2 tsp baking powder

1/4 tsp cinnamon

1/4 tsp nutmeg

2 large eggs, room temperatur­e

1/2 cup non-dairy milk (maybe 1 to 2 tsp more if needed)

1/4cup canola or sunflower seed oil

Topping:

1/4 cup granulated sugar Method:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Spray doughnut pans with non-stick cooking spray and set aside.

Mix dry ingredient­s in a large mixing bowl.

Add eggs, milk, and oil.

Mix well. The batter will be thick, but consistenc­y must allow for spreading in pans.

If the batter is too thick, add milk 1 teaspoon at a time.

Fill each section in doughnut pan is 3/4 full, making sure that the batter is evenly spread.

Bake until golden, 15 minutes or less.

Cool in pans for a few minutes, then gently remove and dredge in granulated sugar.

Cool on racks.

 ?? CONTRIBUTE­D ?? Terri Tremblett from Crumbles with a Twist Bakery in Charlottet­own, P.E.I. says to make doughnut at home, purchase a doughnut pan or two, and bake your doughnut in the oven.
CONTRIBUTE­D Terri Tremblett from Crumbles with a Twist Bakery in Charlottet­own, P.E.I. says to make doughnut at home, purchase a doughnut pan or two, and bake your doughnut in the oven.

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