The Standard (St. Catharines)

A sure sign that restaurant­s don’t care

- CHRIS WATERS chris.waters@sunmedia.ca Twitter: @waters_wine

A reader commented about a recent column discussing why the vintage year is important for wine. They wondered if that was the case, why didn’t some restaurant­s include that informatio­n on their wine lists.

I suspect it’s a simple case of economics. Printing menus can be a pricey prospect and the less specific they are, the longer the life span. But it’s a troubling practice that shows they value convenienc­e more than customer service.

While some bottles, notably many Champagnes and other sparkling wines, might not carry a vintage date because they are produced with grapes grown in multiple vintages, knowing the vintage helps the customer. By knowing how old the bottle is, one can know what to expect.

Sitting down to a 2016 Marlboroug­h Sauvignon would be much more palatable experience than one produced in 2010, which would be over the hill. It would lack the freshness and fruity personalit­y that the style is famous for. That might be an extreme example, but it’s not out of the question.

Seeing vintages on a wine list is a clear indicated that the establishm­ent is serious about its wine program. If the selections don’t include the vintage, I ask the server to check to ensure it’ll be a wine I’ll enjoy.

This might sound like nit-picking, but vintage does make a difference. Despite having the same label, wine isn’t always the same year after year.

Considerin­g that wine represents a big profit centre for most restaurant­s — look at the mark-ups charged on bottles — you’d hope they’d want to deliver the best experience for their guests.

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