Venturing into the heart of Mexico

Forget beach resorts, try San Miguel de Allende for soulful reinvention through art, food and wine

When most tourists think of Mexico, they envision white sand beaches, breathtaking sunsets, endless margaritas — and a possible wall being built between that country and the U.S.A.

But there’s more to Mexico than just enjoying a traditional resort getaway and engaging in its political discourse.

Despite U.S. President Donald Trump’s insistence that most Mexicans are desperate to flee their native land for an increasingly unstable America, this was the furthest thing from the minds of the earnest and peaceful people I met during a visit to San Miguel de Allende.

Juana, who works at the local Artisan Market, told me: “Look at our beautiful city — why would we want to leave here for America?”

Located about a four-hour drive from Mexico City (in the Bajio region of Guanajuato state), the mystical San Miguel may not have any beaches but it’s akin to the Hamptons to those who live in the country’s capital.

Several high-profile magazines, including Travel & Leisure and Condé Nast Traveler, have named the UNESCO World Heritage City as one of the world’s top tourist destinations. Its burgeoning food and wine scene have also made several international Top 10 lists, including Food and Travel Magazine.

Populated by nearly 100,000 people in its urban realm, the “Allende” was added to San Miguel’s name to recognize General Ignacio Allende, a leader of Mexico’s independence movement. San Miguel was the first municipality to declare itself independent from Spanish rule.

Dating back to 1542, San Miguel is a historic town with breathtaking Baroque/Neoclassical colonial architecture. At an elevation of 1,890 metres, it was once an important silver mining centre. But after that industry’s decline, San Miguel almost became a ghost town until it was discovered by foreign artists.

The creative migration to San Miguel inspired several art schools: Instituto Allende and Escuela de Bellas Artes. Each morning, foreign and local art students flood the city’s steep cobblestone streets ready for San Miguel to capture their imagination. A mixture of old and new, San Miguel has impressively maintained its history while evolving with the modern world. There is Starbucks in town — but that’s pretty much it for American gentrification.

Heck, the aorta of the city, which consists of 24 blocks, has no traffic lights. And somehow, pedestrians and drivers don’t intersect with each other but instead dance in sync. San Miguel is very walkable — but leave the high heels at home due to the steep climbs.

When you arrive, you won’t be able to miss its crown-jewel attraction in the middle of the glorious town square: Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel. The towering gothic church was inspired by famed architect Antoni Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in Barcelona.

On weekends, myriad couples travel from all over Mexico to tie the knot in the church before parading to music around the central plaza. Revellers form an entourage behind the newlyweds and celebrations go on into the night.

If you’re thinking of a diverse adventure — full of art, gastronomy and mucho vino — here’s a guide: Reinvent yourself

An eclectic mix of expats and artists make up about 20 per cent of the population, and represent over 63 nationalities. You’ll encounter people like a former New York City gallery owner who was fed up with skyrocketing rents back home and opened up his own spot in an artist colony full of Salvador Dalis; a Madison Avenue advertising couple who bought a farm and now boast an olive oil business; and a Montreal rebel who runs one of the coolest and most inclusive bars on the strip. Getting there

Fly Aeromexico (aeromexico. com/en/ca) to Mexico City, skip the one-hour connecting flight to San Miguel as layovers are usually long. Instead, hop on a deluxe bus from AreoPlus (vivasanmiguel. com): They offer door-to-door service and you’ll save time. Seats cost $24. Where to stay

There are more than 150 hotels (nine are five-star) and plenty of Airbnb options. La Morada Hotel (lamoradahotel.com) borders the main square, El Jardin. Unfortunately, the church bells might keep you up at night so bring ear plugs. (Celebs like Edward Norton have stayed there.) Good eats

Thanks to year-round spring temperatures, farm-to-table offerings and sustainable living are San Miguel’s mantras. Everything is made fresh, tasty and cheap. Chicken is cheaper than dog food, a local tells me. With 76 restaurants of all varieties, you won’t be hungry. Be warned: Expect large portions. Best places to eat? Try El Correo Restaurant for an authentic Mexican breakfast; La Posadita offers a panoramic view from a rooftop as you eat dinner; Cumpanio for an afternoon treat of homemade pastries and coffee; and the countryside Casa de Aves, a hotel-restaurant that serves grilled meats. The weather report

If you’re looking for heat or air conditioning, you’re out of luck — even in the best hotels — but the climate is springlike yearround. Let there be art!

One of the most memorable spots on my trip was Fabrica La Aurora (fabricalaaurora.com). A leading textile factory for over 90 years, the American widow of the Mexican owner transformed the factory into an artist community with art studios, galleries, home furnishings, designer jewelry, accessories, antiques and restaurants. More information See: visitsanmiguel.travel