The Standard (St. Catharines)

The tradition of my boys’ birthday cakes

- ROSS MIDGLEY

BACK OF HOUSE

It’s summertime, and for me it is both the ‘big push’ and the ‘wind down’ of Cake Season. Starting in early March, Cake Season involves the design and execution of three bespoke birthday cakes – one for each of my sons.

The boys choose a theme and then I get to work trying to surprise and wow them with the result at their birthday party.

When our first son was born 15 years ago, I was overwhelme­d by the miracle of being a dad and the almost complete swallowing of my own wants in deference to the wants of the boy. Almost. Two others followed in rapid succession and I became immediatel­y gripped by the importance of starting traditions and making lasting connection­s. I knew I was never going to be the dad who builds a mega playset in the backyard, or who rebuilds bikes or cars. I had to look inside my own wheelhouse and start a tradition I could carry forward: cakes could work, I thought.

For those readers who have covered my writing on the difference between pastry chefs and hot line chefs, there may be some confusion as to why I chose cakes upon which to stake a burgeoning tradition.

My temperamen­t is decidedly less pastry and more imbued with the punk rock, set it on fire, make it in minutes ethos of the hot line cook. But for me, tradition needs to hold some sacrifice to stick and I use the love of my kids as a tool to bring me to the deeper level of patience required to pull off the cakes. And sometimes I also have a drink or two to calm me during the finishing stages ...

The designs come straight from the imaginatio­n of our boys, can never repeat and almost never can they be accomplish­ed with the simple purchase of a cake pan; I try to be more imaginativ­e than that. Simple math shows that three different cakes per year, times three quickly aging boys, adds up rather quickly. The third cake this season will mark my 38th unique design. Over those 38 cakes there has been a truly varied parade of styles.

Some requests have fallen in line with expectatio­ns: The Bat symbol; Superman’s shield; Curious George; Pikachu; soccer balls; basketball jerseys; drum and guitar cakes. And then some cakes have been more ‘out there’: The Eye of Sauron; A tiki mask in hula skirt; a chemistry set; the Pan-Am logo; a bowling pin and ball; a Fender guitar pick. One year the ‘cake’ was a large snake pieced together out of multi-coloured Rice Krispy squares, when we were hosting some guests with gluten and dairy allergies.

The last cake I created, for my first born (who burned his finger on the candle of his marching drum – the first cake on his first birthday) involved some research on my part. “I want a chocolate and peanut butter cake, served with Kool Aid, representi­ng the album cover Awaken My Love by Childish Gambino,” he said. He must be winding me up, I thought. But research I did, and I pulled it off!

Ialwaysmak­ethecakesi­nthekitche­n where I am working so my brigade can see, not only how crazy I am, but also how committing to something as simple as three birthday cakes per year is the true essence and power of what cooking thoughtful­ly for others can mean. I hope I bake three distinct cakes per year as long as I physically can. I wonder what those designs will become? Ross Midgley moved from P.E.I. to Niagara in 1999. Since then he has held the lead position in several of the region’s top kitchens. He is passionate about his family, all things Niagara and good rock ’n’ roll. He can be reached at chefrmidgl­ey1968@gmail.com.

 ?? SUPPLIED PHOTO ?? Chef Ross Midgley has created a family tradition that involves making a unique birthday cake each year for each of his three sons.
SUPPLIED PHOTO Chef Ross Midgley has created a family tradition that involves making a unique birthday cake each year for each of his three sons.
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