A close encounter with the diversity of Australian wine

Wine Australia recently invited sommeliers and wine media to experience Australia Up Close. It wasn’t an opportunity to jet across the world for a visit sadly, but rather a chance to taste an eye-opening selection of wine that global education manager Mark Davidson selected show what’s happening Down Under.

Davidson worked as a sommelier in Toronto and Vancouver prior to signing on to promote Australian wines around the world. He’s an accomplished presenter who’s clearly is passionate about the subject.

“I tend to look at the world of Australian wine through three key concepts,” Davidson said. “These are things that are always in the back of mind.”

Basically, the modern face of Australian wine can be conjured up as a blend of history, evolution and revolution.

“I like to talk about history because we have it,” Davidson explained at the start of the June 13 tasting at the Design Exchange in downtown Toronto. “We have got the oldest vines on the planet when it comes to varieties like Shiraz, Mourvèdre and Grenache. There are also classic wine styles that have been around for ages and family businesses that are, in some cases, six or seven generations in.”

Evolution can be seen in the styles of wine the glass, especially in the changing fashion of Chardonnay. Revolution, meanwhile, is marked by the introduction of new varieties and new ideas taking root in vineyards and cellars across the country.

Davidson took the novel approach of only pouring white wines, serving a tidy collection of delicious wines to show what exists beyond Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and other red wines.

Pointing at the wines on the table, Davidson explained they all told stories about the region in which they’re grown as well as the history and evolution of wine in Australia. “The diversity that exists in places like France also exists in Australia,” he said. “Shiraz might be our calling card, but there’s a lot more to discover.” Vasse Felix’s Filius Chardonnay delivers the rich, flavourful expression one expects from Margaret River, with nicely balanced citrus, nutty and herbal notes that are refreshed by a bright, all-pervasive streak of mouthwatering acidity. It’s a delicious and delightful expression of Chardonnay and a terrific introduction to one of Australia’s top producers. Anyone looking for an affordable introduction to the glory of Margaret River Cabernet-based wines need look no farther. Filius Cabernet Merlot is decidedly medium bodied and nicely balanced — it’s pretty much textbook Cabernet Merlot, with structure coming from the former and plush texture and hedonic fruit delivered by the latter. This rich and rewarding red wine is ready to drink now and over the next six to eight years.