Some wineries opt not to produce icewine this year
Temperatures have still not dropped low enough to produce dessert wine
Niagara grape growers and wineries are still waiting to harvest what some people refer to as liquid gold.
In an unusual season, temperatures have yet to consistently drop below –8 C to harvest icewine grapes.
That has no consequence for many wineries that have decided not to make icewine in this vintage.
In its annual report, VQA Ontario said pre-registrations for icewine grapes were down by more than a fifth at just 1,058 tonnes, a record low since it began regulating the harvest.
Ferox owner and winemaker Fabian Reis, like many others, decided early on he will not make an icewine this year even though the winery has had great success with its unique Dornfelder Icewine.
“In 2016, we took a risk, we were the only ones in North America to produce a single barrel. It gave us a chance to do something completely different. It sold out quite quickly, then in 2017 we made quite a bit of it.”
He said it’s tough to make it every year because it is a very sensitive varietal and tends to be a luxury icewine.
In 2020, he said, grape yields were down about 30 per cent, so he decided to use those grapes for table wines.
“We had lower yields, but amazing quality, probably the best I’ve ever seen since I’ve made wine.”
Similarly, Sue-ann Staff from her estate winery, decided early on she would not be leaving grapes on the vine this year.
“I decided back in July or August I would have a lot of inventory, so decided to take a year hiatus,” said Staff.
“There has been a trade down in the wine sector, and everyone is buying options that are a bit more reasonable for their standard of living.
“With no travel, that reduces sales in duty-free shops, and with the economic situation being suppressed around the world like China, Korea, Japan, that has brought down the need for a lot of export sales as well.
“You need to register your grapes by the middle of November with the Vintners Quality Alliance,” explained Staff.
“How many tonnes, how many rows, that parcel is up for audit to ensure that when you do harvest grapes the quantity stated will relate to the quantity of juice as well.
“There is an icewine policeman, that I call him, and you have to call and state your harvesting and how much you plan to harvest.”
Suzanne Janke, estate director at Stratus, says it is still waiting to begin its harvest, although it decided to scale back in the summer.
“We have two styles of icewine, red and Riesling, all from the estate.”
She said the plan was to make both, but as the pandemic took hold and the season changed significantly in terms of visitation, export and because the weather was so great, Stratus turned its attention to making table wines from its grapes because it still had enough supply of icewine for the next year.
“It’s a wine that sells to our international clientele. We export quite a bit overseas to the U.K., Belgium, Japan. The wine world has slowed, the demand is pulling our supply.”
What the producers all lament is the cancellation of icewine-related festivals and events.
“The icewine festival is essential for us being a newer winery. It gave us the ability to get new clients in our portfolio. Creating a buzz by word-of-mouth marketing,” said Reis.
Said Staff, “We are a world leader icewine producer. Without the celebration, it takes a lot of the excitement about icewine away.
“It’s a big hole in the winter that we look forward to.”
Like at most wineries, Staff and Ferox now do virtual tastings.
Staff recently launched her Frosty Friday event that will be running for the winter. She will be showcasing an icewine cocktail made with as many Canadian ingredients as possible.
“To highlight all the different things you can do with icewine.”