Voluptuous Valpolicella
Valpolicella ranks with Chianti as one of Italy’s most recognizable wines.
Valpolicella ranks with Chianti as one of the more recognizable wine regions of Italy. In terms of quality wine production under the DOC and DOCG designations, it is second only to Chianti in total volume. Both regions produce predominantly red wines, but otherwise are not very much alike.
Corvina is the main grape in Valpolicella, with Rondinella, Corvinone and several more playing secondary roles, as compared to Chianti’s Sangiovese, Canaiolo and others.
While Chianti sticks generally to dry red wines, Valpolicella offers a range of interesting styles.
The simplest Valpolicella wine is mass-produced, pale, bitter and of little interest. Wines labelled as Superiore or as being from the Classico part of the subregion are more likely to yield a serious, worthwhile glass.
The distinguishing feature of this region is the technique of using dried grapes in the winemaking process.
The desirable grapes are grown in the cooler parts of the territory to preserve acidity levels and harvested late to maximize sugar levels.
Only the best bunches in the better years can be used for drying, as there is a risk the berries will rot rather than raisin.
Traditionally, the bunches were laid out on straw mats for drying, but drying chambers are more common now as production volumes increase.
The raisined grapes are then pressed and the juice fermented. The drying process introduces additional aromatic compounds to the mixture. The increased ratio of skin to pulp allows for greater extraction of flavour components from the skins. The result is a wine of enhanced and perhaps even intense flavours which is at the same time well rounded and mellow.
Fully fermented wines are dry, with alcohol levels exceeding 15 per cent, and are labelled as Amarone. They receive several years of barrel aging, producing flavours described as mocha, dried fig, raisin and Christmas spice.
Amarone is becoming more and more popular, despite the relatively high prices required because of the small volumes from the drying process.
If the fermentation is stopped before all the grape sugars are consumed, the wine is sweet and labelled as Recioto.
The increasing volumes of Amarone production have allowed another wine style to develop in the last few decades. The Ripasso method adds the leftover skins and seeds from Amarone and Recioto to ordinary Valpolicella fermentation. Some of those lovely flavour compounds and additional body are incorporated into the final wine. Such wines provide a glimpse of Amarone character at a more approachable price.
The Bolla Valpolicella Classico 2013 (NLC $15.78) was purplered with aromas of ripe cherry and prune. The flavours continued in the mouth, with the addition of some juicy acidity and moderate round tannins. This wine will be at its best at the dinner table, particularly with tomato-based dishes. Score 14/Good.
At the other end of the spectrum is the Bolla Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (NLC $45.80) which was more brick red in colour. The expected raisin and dried fig flavours were abundantly present, as was the fullbodied, mellow texture. Enjoyable on its own, it would also suit hearty meat dishes. Score 15.5/Very Good.