The best berry for last
You can’t eat it as is, or even with a spoonful of sugar and doused with milk, but darned if the partridgeberry isn’t the tastiest and most versatile of the year’s harvest, so good nature saved it for last.
I think it’s my favourite because it does double duty in both savory and sweet dishes. I’ve got a couple for you today showcasing the best traits in both categories.
Partridgeberry and Onion Chutney
This is such a versatile condiment it goes perfectly with just about anything you can think of. Serve it anytime you would a bottled or homemade pickle, but it is especially delicious with game or such strongly flavoured meats as lamb. The best pairing, however, has to be fishcakes. There’s something incredible about the tart and sweet bite on top of a salty morsel. The whole spices in this recipe make a real difference so don’t be tempted to substitute. They keep so much longer than pre-ground it’s worth a trip to bulk store to keep some on hand for special recipes like this one. If you’ve never used juniper berries they provide the primary flavour in gin, but they don’t make this chutney taste boozy. It will be a familiar yet exotic hint in the background. I know you’re familiar with allspice but using the whole berries is a step up in every way. This amount makes a couple of cups but I don’t seem to have leftovers, ever.
1 tbsp. juniper berries 1 tbsp. whole allspice 3/4 cup cider vinegar 6 whole cloves 2 whole star anise 1 3-inch length of cinnamon stick 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes 2 tsp. vegetable oil 1 small red onion, thinly sliced lengthwise, pole to pole 1 tart apple, peeled and diced 1 cup partridgeberries 1/4 cup granulated sugar 1/2 cup golden raisins 1/4 cup water 1/4 tsp. each salt and freshly ground black pepper
Crush the juniper and allspice with the bottom of a heavy saucepan. You just want to crack them open, not pulverize them. Combine with vinegar, cloves, star anise, cinnamon stick and red pepper flakes in that same heavy-bottomed pot and bring to a boil. Simmer together, covered, for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the mixture steep for as long as you have time, but at least half an hour. Strain and discard the spices, reserving the flavoured vinegar. Heat up the vegetable oil in the same pot and add the onion. Fry a couple of minutes then add the apple. Cook another few minutes, just until everything starts to soften. Add the partridgeberries, sugar, raisins, water and reserved vinegar and simmer together, covered, 30 minutes or until the liquid has just about boiled away. Keep an eye on the pot so it doesn’t go dry. If the liquid is disappearing too fast just add a little more water. Stir in the salt and pepper and taste. If it is too tart for your liking add another spoonful of sugar and continue to heat until it is completely dissolved. Serve hot, warm or chilled. I think the flavours are best when it is lukewarm.
Partridgeberry, Rolled Oats and Almond Loaf
This quick bread is fabulous for dessert and equally wonderful for breakfast. If you have any left after a couple of days, soak thick slices in beaten egg and milk, fry in butter and serve with maple syrup as you would French toast.
2 cups all-purpose flour 1-1/4 cups large cut rolled oats (not the instant kind) 2/3 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar 1 tsp. baking powder 1/2 tsp. baking soda 1/2 tsp. salt 1/2 tsp. ground cardamom 1-1/3 cups milk, any fat content 3 eggs, lightly beaten 1/4 cup vegetable oil 2 tbsp. melted butter or margarine 2 tsp. vanilla 1-1/4 cups partridgeberries, fresh or frozen (not thawed) 1/3 cup sliced almonds
Whisk together flour, rolled oats, brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cardamom. In a separate bowl, whisk together milk, eggs, oil, butter and vanilla. Stir wet ingredients into dry all at once, mixing just until there are no floury streaks. Fold in partridgeberries and almonds. Spoon into a buttered and floured nine inch by five inch loaf pan and bake at 350 F for one hour or until a tester in the middle comes out clean. If your pan is dark reduce the temperature to 325 F. Cool in the pan 10 minutes then turn out onto a rack.