Summer scraps
What a summer it’s been. Rather than worry about the end I’m determined to make the most of every scrap of warmth we have left, whether it’s sitting outdoors with a cup of coffee in the earliest daylight or inviting friends over to enjoy a meal just as it’s getting duckish.
Crispy Cod Wraps I’m not much of a fisher so I treasure every morsel of cod that makes its way into my kitchen in the summer. Once I’m satisfied with a couple of fry-ups, a bake and a stew, I’m ready to try something different with the scrousty bits leftover and this recipe is perfect. If you don’t want to make your own dressing of course you can substitute any that you like, including just plain mayonnaise, but please don’t leave out the fresh dill—it adds the perfect herbal note. For those who may have overdone the summer barbecuing lighten up this recipe by serving it as a beautiful hot-and-cold salad rather than in a wrap. Omit the cheese and use a lowcalorie dressing for another step back. Steaming or baking the fish eliminates frying but you will miss the crispy texture so that’s truly a last resort. A pound of scrappy cod will make half a dozen satisfying wraps, but really you just divide what you have among the people you’ve got to feed.
Dill Dressing:
¼ cup mayonnaise, not salad dressing
¼ cup sour cream, any fat content 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 2 tbsp. chopped fresh dill fronds 2 tbsp. dill pickles, minced
¼ tsp. each salt and freshly ground black pepper
Crispy Cod: 1 lb. fresh or thawed frozen cod ½ cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp. each salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp. sweet paprika ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper ½ cup vegetable oil for frying
Wraps:
2 cups coarsely chopped iceberg or romaine lettuce
1 cup diced English cucumber
1 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese 2 green onions, white and green parts, thinly sliced 6 large flour tortillas
For the dressing, whisk together mayonnaise, sour cream, lemon juice and mustard. Stir in fresh dill, dill pickles, salt and pepper and refrigerate until ready to use. To prepare the cod, cut it into pieces about two bites big, like thick fish sticks. Dry with paper towels. Whisk together flour, salt, pepper, paprika and cayenne. Dredge fish pieces thoroughly and shake off the excess.
Heat the oil in a large non-stick pan until shimmering and carefully lay in the fish. Don’t touch it until the first side is deep golden brown, about 4 minutes. Flip and brown on the other side—it won’t take as long for the second.
To build the wraps, divide the lettuce, cucumber, cheddar and onions among the tortillas and top each with a couple of pieces of fish. Spoon on just enough dressing to moisten—you don’t want them soupy. Roll up, tucking in one end, and serve at once.
Strawberry Meringue Custard Pots
These are worth the bit of fussing and use up the strawberries that are starting to look a little the worse for hanging around your fridge too long. In fact, use whatever berries or chopped fresh fruit you have on hand. They aren’t in the oven long enough to cook but there’s just enough wilting to release a delicious natural juice in the final product.
The custard filling is pretty much the same as you’d bake in pastry but a little richer with the addition of cream. Use all milk if you’d rather.
This amount makes 6 generous servings.
Custard:
1 cup each coffee cream and whole milk
2 eggs plus 2 egg yolks, whites reserved for the meringue
1/3 cup granulated sugar
½ tsp. good quality vanilla
1/8 tsp. ground nutmeg, preferably freshly ground Meringue: 2 reserved egg whites ½ tsp. cream of tartar ¼ tsp. salt ½ cup granulated sugar Assembly:
1 heaping cup diced fresh strawberries
For the custard, microwave the cream and milk together until it is steaming but not boiling. Beat eggs, egg yolks and sugar until pale in color and fluffy. Stir in vanilla and nutmeg and divide among six lightly buttered ramekins. Place in a baking pan and fill halfway up the sides with boiling water. Bake at 350 degrees F for 55 minutes or until a knife in the centre comes out clean. There should be a tiny wobble in the middle. Make meringue while custard is baking. Beat egg whites, cream of tartar and salt until soft foamy peaks form. Beat in the sugar a heaping teaspoonful at a time. Continue beating until stiff peaks form.
Divide the strawberries among the hot custard cups as soon as they come out of the oven. Top with mounds of meringue, being sure to spread it to the edges. Make dips and swirls in the top. Broil about 5 minutes—not in a water bath this time—until the meringue has nicely browned bits. Cool then chill until ready to serve.