The Telegram (St. John's)

To bread or not to bread

- Cynthia Stone Everyday Kitchen

If I’m alone in my kitchen with a nice piece of fresh cod, halibut, salmon or just about any fish, more likely than not it’s going to be dredged in seasoned flour and pan fried in a bit of neutral vegetable oil. It’s the way my mother cooked it for more than 60 years and I’ll carry on that tradition, not just because of tradition, but because it’s simple, quick and delicious.

Company coming means a change in plan. Taste rules, of course, but I also want to pay more attention to texture and sauce and sides.

When serving fish to impress, to bread or not to bread is the first question that must be answered.

Crispy Fried Cod

Cod served hot and crisp out of the frying pan with a simple sauce—even store-bought tartar—is always a winner. Potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots, Brussels sprouts, turnip and green beans are all delicious and perfect side dish choices because the cod carries the show.

If you’re wondering whether healthier breaded baked cod is as good, I can’t honestly say yes. For an equally delicious nonbreaded recipe keep reading.

Panko-style crumbs work best here, although coarse dry crumbs will do the job. Fresh bread won’t give you the same crunch.

Don’t skip any steps in the breading line or the crust won’t stick as well.

This method works with any fresh fish fillets but if it’s thicker than about an inch keep the pan over medium-low heat or the outside will overcook before the centre is done. By the way, this method is also fantastic for boneless skinless chicken breasts, thin pork chops and lamb chops.

Allow a scant half pound per serving, although it doesn’t seem to matter how much I cook—it’s always devoured.

2 lbs. fresh cod or other fish fillet

½ cup all-purpose flour

1 tsp. each salt and freshly

ground black pepper

1 egg

½ tsp. hot pepper sauce, optional

1-1/2 cups panko bread crumbs

¼ cup vegetable oil

Pat fish dry with a paper towel and cut into serving-sized pieces. Combine flour, salt and pepper and place in a large shallow bowl. Whisk together egg and hot sauce and place in a second bowl. Place breadcrumb­s in a third.

Dip each piece of fish in flour until completely coated and shake off the excess. Dip in egg mixture and let the excess drip off. Finally, coat in the crumbs, pressing gently to help them adhere. Place on a rack until all pieces are ready to cook. Refrigerat­e uncovered for up to a couple of hours.

Don’t put the fish on a plate or moisture will collect where they touch and the crust will be soggy.

Heat the oil in a non-stick pan over medium and fry in batches small enough so the pieces have at least an inch of space all around. For a medium thick fillet allow it to cook for 4 minutes then check—don’t flip it around or fool with it. When it is consistent­ly dark golden-brown flip and finish cooking on the other side. To test for doneness I sneak a peek by pushing a fork in the middle and prying the flesh gently apart to see if it

flakes. That side becomes the bottom for serving, of course. I like salmon a little less cooked so I look for a slightly darker pink middle instead of the flaking—your choice.

The fish will hold in a warm oven for a few minutes but don’t make it wait too long.

 ?? CYNTHIA STONE PHOTO ?? Fresh fish is a favourite, especially in Newfoundla­nd and Labrador. Some folks like it plain, and others like it crisped up with some kind of coating.
CYNTHIA STONE PHOTO Fresh fish is a favourite, especially in Newfoundla­nd and Labrador. Some folks like it plain, and others like it crisped up with some kind of coating.
 ??  ?? A lighter way to prepare fresh fish is to poach it. Halibut is spectacula­r when poached.
A lighter way to prepare fresh fish is to poach it. Halibut is spectacula­r when poached.
 ??  ??

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