Finally, spring — and the asparagus is calling
Spring is slow arriving around here but it can’t hide in the grocery store. Produce aisles are finally looking greener and are getting a little less scary to the pocket book.
I can’t wait to start trying recipes that usher in the new growing season, even if the fruit and veg aren’t actually growing next door … yet.
Crispy Fried Asparagus
Asparagus yells spring at the top of its lungs. I realize it is mostly imported but it can be grown here — my parents did so for years — and I looked forward to it like no other garden bounty.
First meal is always steamed and lightly buttered. The second is roasted or grilled. Then I’m ready to share with friends. This recipe is perfect for an afternoon beer on the deck or the fanciest time you’re planning this year.
This one requires breading and frying and fussing but it is worth every bit of effort. As a first course or party finger food these will fly off the serving plate before anything else on offer.
The trick is keeping the crisp coating on the notoriously slippery stalks and the only way is to use the three-step breading method.
Now is a good time for a few asparagus tips — sorry.
When choosing a bunch at the store gently squeeze the tips. If they are soft or, even worse, slimy, put them back. Likewise, pass by if the little flowers at the top are splayed open or bits come off in your hand.
They should be kept fully hydrated in the store and if the thick bottoms are dry and woody that is how they will taste. Thick stalks are tasty but you have to peel their bottom halves or cut them off.
I’ve seen those TV chefs snapping the stalks at their “natural” place but I don’t think that works I’d rather cut them so they are all the same length. Gives you more useful stalk, too.
If you go for the super thin ones they cook in a minute and will end up limp if you overdo it. The perfect asparagus has bite but is not hard.
Breading works best with a medium-sized stalk.
This recipe is all about organization. Have the asparagus trimmed, washed and completely dry before you start. I find loaf pans are the perfect vessel to hold the flour, egg and crumbs.
As to breadcrumbs you can use whatever kind you prefer — the fine ones cling better to the asparagus but they aren’t crunchy enough for me. I really like the texture of panko. For a super crunchy crust you can double up the breading — flour, egg, fine breadcrumbs followed by another dip in the egg then the panko. I like to see the green of the vegetable poking through so I’m a single dunker.
Allow three or four spears per person, although I can easily eat twice that. Don’t tell anyone.
If you prefer a creamy dip like ranch dressing feel free. A spoonful of Parmesan cheese in the crumbs is also delicious, although the dip below would not be the best choice in that case.
Dip:
¼ cup soy sauce
¼ to ½ tsp. bottled chili paste or hot pepper sauce, to taste 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice 1 tbsp. hoisin sauce 1 tsp. honey
1 green onion, white and green part, thinly sliced
Asparagus:
½ cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp. each salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 egg or 2 egg whites, lightly beaten
1 cup panko bread crumbs 1 large bunch (12 to 18) asparagus spears, woody ends trimmed, washed and dried
½ cup vegetable oil, not olive oil (doesn’t get hot enough without smoking)
Combine sauce ingredients and refrigerate until ready to use.
Whisk together flour, salt and pepper and place in a shallow bowl large enough for the asparagus spears to lie flat. Place beaten egg in a second, similar bowl and the panko crumbs in a third.
Work with four asparagus stalks at a time. Dip them first in the flour mixture and shake off the excess — the coating should be very thin. Make sure it doesn’t accumulate in the petals of the tips or you will get a gummy result.
Dip next in the egg, tipping the bowl gently to cover the stalks without rubbing off the flour.
Finally, dip in the crumbs. With a clean hand scoop up the crumbs and drop them gently on top of the stalks, pressing lightly to help them adhere. Place on a wire rack for 10 minutes before continuing.
Heat vegetable oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet until just under the smoke point. If you drop a few bread crumbs into it they should sizzle and turn brown in about five seconds. If they turn dark too quickly reduce the heat before proceeding.
Place the asparagus in the pan gently, leaving plenty of room between the stalks. Don’t touch them until you can see they are golden on the bottom and halfway up the sides. Carefully flip them with tongs to immerse the second side. Again, fry until golden brown. Each side will take about 3 minutes. If the timing and heat are right the texture of the asparagus will be perfectly tender but still firm when the crumbs are brown.
Drain on a rack — the crumbs tend to rub off if you use paper towels. Garnish with lemon slices and serve with the prepared dip.