Wait! Don’t put a lick of stain on your deck until you’ve done THIS
Deck stain tips for the best results with the least maintenance
Outside guide: deck stain tips for the best results with the least maintenance
Protecting your investment is the name of the game when it comes to outdoor maintenance. Uncoated wood will rot with time, and even clear-coated wood will turn grey with extended UV exposure.
Make the most of these smart outdoor tips, so you can get the most out of your outdoor space and the always fleeting summer.
Don’t stain yet! Have you prepped?
Nearly all finish failures are due to improper on-the-job preparation. Stains require a clean, sound surface to penetrate — free of dirt, grease, mildew, dead wood fibres, old stain layers and barbecue sauce.
Which one of these scenarios sounds like you? You haven’t touched a deckboard since the deck was built years ago, and there’s green mould behind the garbage bucket that science hasn’t discovered yet.
You’ll want a cleaner like Benjamin Moore’s Restore, which restores grey, weathered wood to make it stain-ready. You’ve previously stained your deck but it’s time for a re-coat. Be sure to remove the layers of existing stain so the new coat can fully penetrate all areas. Benjamin Moore’s Remove strips oil and latex finishes, even solid stains and water sealers. You’ve been good with regular deck upkeep and are ready to commit to a stain colour. Good for you! You may be able to skip right to Benjamin Moore’s Clean, which will remove surface dirt, mould and mildew for a fresh start. Your deck is brand new. Congratulations! But that doesn’t let you off the hook. “Mill Glaze” is found on all new wood, and it interferes with the adhesion and penetration of stain. Benjamin Moore’s Brighten will neutralize this glaze to give you an early start. (Note: New lumber will still need 30 days to dry completely from the manufacturing process.)
Think you’re ready? Take the droplet test
Sprinkle some water onto your deckboards. Does it bead? If so, then the water isn’t penetrating the wood— and neither will your stain. Get to the original wood fibres so there is something to absorb the stain. Go one more round of cleaning, sanding with 80 grit, or pressure washing, and try it again.
Latex or oil? Solid or semi?
Alkyd (or oil-based) stains combat moisture the best. Ground-level decks, lawn furniture, and even fences are susceptible to moisture from the ground — and they are best covered in an alkyd stain for increased durability. Use latex stain where UV exposure is more of a priority: on siding or raised decks, for example.
Use semi-transparent to minimize the wear and tear of foot traffic.
Solid stains tend not to hold up as well with repeated use. Consider a transparent or semitransparent stain for floorboards and handrails, to minimize (and disguise) wear and tear. Use solid colours where less maintenance is required or to hide the signs of aging on a well-worn deck.
Watch the forecast
Naturally, moisture and stain don’t mix. We know it’s a tough ask in this climate, but these are the details that will minimize flaking and peeling down the road:
• Ensure your deck has had time to dry thoroughly before applying the stain — ideally three days of sun.
• Avoid applying stain in wet weather or high humidity.
• Do not stain in direct sunlight. It will dry too quickly and cause the stain to become tacky. Follow the shadow of the sun and stain in the shade.
How’s that siding looking? Don’t replace: repaint
One last tip to sneak in — and this is a big one!
You know how one thing leads to another and all of a sudden, your new deck is outshining your old siding? But forget a major tear-up. Outsmart the situation and paint your vinyl siding instead of replacing it. A fresh coat is a fraction of the cost with hundreds more colour choices and professional-looking results.