P.E.I. - small province, big cuisine
Even visiting chefs now call Prince Edward Island, “Canada’s Food Island”. That was the term used by Montreal celebrity chef and “Chopped Canada” judge Antonio Park at one of P.E.I.’S exciting new Fall Flavours culinary events.
Now in its 11th year, Fall Flavours has evolved into one of the world’s premier month long culinary festivals. Surrounded by the sea, P.E.I. and its cuisine naturally emphasizes seafood — lobsters, scallops, oysters, mussels, crabs and halibut. But P.E.I. potatoes are among the best on the planet and, in recent years, Island beef and pork have developed an enviable reputation. With a population of just over 150,000, Prince Edward Island punches well above its weight for tourist attractions (think Anne of Green Gables) and now for world class cuisine. We were among those seafood enthusiasts who spent several adventure-filled days in central and eastern P.E.I. sampling and savouring.
Getting to the Island is also an adventure. Many arrive and leave by the 13-kilometre (eight mile) toll bridge from New Brunswick (you only pay when leaving). We chose a more leisurely route by taking the car ferry from Nova Scotia and leaving by the bridge.
Arriving by ferry towards the eastern end of P.E.I. is a visual delight. The red soil, rolling hills, luscious green fields and well-kept homes are a gentle reminder that this is a different place with a more tranquil way of life. The sandstone cliffs and well-preserved lighthouses just add to the relaxing atmosphere.
It was close to the nearby Point Prim lighthouse that our seafood feast began. The Point Prim Chowder House is an old-fashioned eatery with signs made from license plate letters. The seaside restaurant offers both hot and cold lobster rolls. Their Steamer Pot, featuring clams, mussels, fresh fish and snow crab legs is a popular choice. Everything was delicious and served as an excellent beginning to four days of seafood indulgence.
Like most visitors we stayed in Charlottetown, the laidback capital city with a population less than 45,000. In recent years it has evolved a sophisticated culinary scene with many ethnic restaurants, a wonderful twice-a-week farmers’ market and even a great downtown coffee house (Receiver Coffee). We stayed at the convenient, modern Hotel on Pownal, recently completely renovated. It’s owned by the Murphy clan, a P.E.I. family that’s had a major impact on regional cuisine and accommodation.
We particularly enjoyed the evening happy hour with complimentary snacks, wine and excellent Gahan craft beer, made on P.E.I. (the blueberry ale was especially tasty).
Our dinner choice that evening was the nearby Sim’s Corner Steakhouse and Oyster Bar (another Murphy property). We enjoyed a succulent New York striploin (with roasted baby red potatoes and chanterelles) and the freshest, tastiest halibut we’ve ever had. Very impressive.
The following morning, after a fine complimentary breakfast at the Hotel on Pownal, we felt energetic and headed back to the eastern end of the island and a long walk in Greenwich P.E.I. National Park. A serpentine trail takes visitors over a pond with its extensive floating boardwalk and on to spectacular sand dunes by the beach. For lunch we chose Rick’s Fish ‘n Chips in the village of St. Peter’s Bay. This compact main street eatery features an unusual curried seafood chowder and exquisite fish, with thin, tempura type batter and hand cut chips, some of best we’ve ever enjoyed. We were very full but wanted to check out a new, ethnic restaurant in Souris, the town with daily ferry service to Quebec’s Magdalen Islands. Poké Shack has Hawaiian/japanese cuisine, mainly seafood (local raw tuna is a feature) or chicken, served in a bowl with rice and greens.
That evening was the time for celebrity chef Antonio Park to shine.
The new Fall Flavours event was called “An Exclusive Evening at Red Shores”. This is Charlottetown’s harness racing track overlooking the harbour and has a fine, three tiered “Top of the Park” restaurant where chef Park and Red Shores’ executive chef Andrew Smith produced a five course, gourmet feast with wine pairings.