THE DETAILS
I could smell it before I rounded the corner. The enticing aromas of curry, cardamom and cumin almost lifted me off my feet while my husband and I were on our daily pandemic neighbourhood stroll. Where were those delicious smells wafting down Empire Avenue coming from?
And then we saw it. There, where an oft-passed convenience store once stood, was Spicex, the newest addition to the Indian food scene here in St. John’s. Needless to say, I went home immediately to find out how I could order takeout for dinner.
Owner Mithun Mathew opened Spicex at the beginning of February 2020 on the corner of Malta Street and Empire Avenue which has housed a myriad of businesses over the years, most recently Dawe’s Bodega & Kitchen and at one point Kavanagh’s Fish & Chips.
The timing for Spicex’s hasn’t been ideal, what with a post-snowmageddon opening followed by a pandemic-mandated takeout situation for the dining scene here in St. John’s and all. But luckily this eatery is basically a takeout only. Save for the few outside picnic tables jumbled near the entrance of this former corner store, take away is the only option.
Spicex is available for delivery on both Skip the Dishes and Door Dash, but the business has to charge a few dollars more for each dish because of the cut that these delivery companies take (FYI it’s almost 30 per cent), so we opted to call the restaurant directly to order our takeout Indian feast.
The pickup was quick and easy, though if you want a contactless option, I would advise an online delivery service. I read somewhere recently (who remembers where they read anything these days with all that pandemic scrolling) that takeout food actually tastes better if you plate it up, so my husband and I took a few extra minutes to wipe down our packages, re-plate the food on real plates, pour up a couple of beers and dug in. Whoever said this was right; it almost felt like we were eating at a restaurant.
Almost.
First up, we devoured the Samosas ($2.50 each). They were nice and crispy on the outside with the perfect balance of curried chickpeas and a subtle hit of spice on the inside. Next came the Butter Chicken Wings ($7.99) — part of Spicex’s fusion menu which also includes a Butter Chicken Poutine — which included five juicy wings bathing in rich Butter Chicken sauce and served with naan and a side salad.
The Beef Biriyani ($11.99) which also came with a small side salad, was bountiful with flaky, juicy pieces of beef and if anything was a little overseasoned. Laden with different spices, some bites felt a little grainy. The full cardamon pods were a little overpowering, but overall it was a balanced, delicious dish.
Most of the main dishes at Spicex are plated up like meals with a boatload of basmati (perfectly cooked) and buttery naan. The Butter Chicken ($10.99) was also very flavourful; the rich tomato sauce was creamy from the yogurt and well-spiced, but sadly it was a little paltry on the poultry. Even for one person, the chicken portion wasn’t huge.
The Vegetable Korma ($10.99) also came with rice and naan, and while I appreciate the versatility of this dish,
Spicex
31 Malta St. St. John's, NL A1C 4T1 709-739-7474
Hours: Accessibility: Noise level: Reservations: Take-away and delivery: Meal for three (we ordered three meals, because why not) with tax and tip:
allowing for a variance in regional vegetables the world over (I’ve seen all kinds of veg in the kormas I’ve eaten), this one took poetic licence to the extreme with canned peas. The korma was more of a soup than sauce, lacking the smoothness of coconut milk and warming creaminess of cashew I expected in a veg korma.
Spicex is a welcome addition to the Empire Avenue strip of Chinese takeouts and convenience stores, and with extra finessing will become a go-to dinner option for the area.