Chef Ilona Daniel feels a little fishy
Industry a highlight of Atlantic Canadians for a long time
When we seek a way to capture what it is which unites our regional identity in Atlantic Canada, the heritage and culture of fishing serve as a lighthouse illuminating the heart of the adventurous spirit of Atlantic Canadians.
Historically, as the Europeans ventured across the Atlantic Ocean and made landfall in Atantic Canada, fishing became a primary food source for both the English and French. It’s important to note the bounty of the ocean had been plentiful for millennia.
The reliance on food that came from the ocean became an industry. Much of the fish that was caught along far reaches of the Canadian waters were destined for markets not only on our shores but that of European nations as well.
Likewise, as the fisheries grew, entire industries around fishing sprang up in all the Atlantic Canadian provinces, including lumber, shipbuilding, and canneries. It is no wonder today we celebrate the rich fishery tradition.
As a chef in Prince Edward Island, I know September usually ushers in the annual Prince Edward Island Shellfish Festival (coronavirus can change things).
Another important seafood champion on P.E.I. is the MR Seafood team, located in Charlottetown.
In Nova Scotia, Helen Earley explores the South Shore Lobster Crawl — a festival where there are several experiences to take part in. What makes this interesting is the medium the competitors use to construct their crustaceans: snow.
In Newfoundland, Chef Mark Mccrowe got involved with the Songs Stages and Seafood festival in Bay Roberts in its first year of creation. Mccrowe says he got hooked on, “all of the people involved in the festival, the hospitality of the town and the simple cooking of quality Newfoundland seafood every year since.”
In Miramichi, N.B., a vibrant and progressive chef, Dennis Macdonald, enjoys the thrill of experimenting with new ways of preparing both fin and shellfish.
Macdonald shares this recipe:
POACHED STRIPED BASS WITH VICHYSSOISE, TEXTURES OF CARROT AND HERB OIL
To prepare the bass or similar white fish, take the portions of fillet and salt them all over with sea salt. Place on plastic wrap and tightly wrap it into a cylinder. Place in the refrigerator for three to four hours. This quick cure will help the flesh to firm up slightly while seasoning the fish at the same time.
When finished curing, rinse under cold water and pat dry. Slice into discs and return the fish to the fridge, uncovered, to allow the surface of the flesh to dry up.
The vichyssoise:
3 Leeks thinly sliced
2 lbs Yukon gold potato diced 2 tbsp butter olive oil
3 cups chicken stock or water 1 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper
In a large pot on medium heat, sweat the leeks in the butter and a splash of olive oil until translucent. Add the stock and potatoes and continue to simmer until the potato is soft and cooked through. Add the cream and season to taste. While still warm, transfer the soup to a blender and blitz until silky smooth.
For the herb oil:
240g leafy garden herbs 120g neutral oil such as canola
Combine in a blender and process on high until the oil turns bright green and is warm to the touch.
Line a strainer with a coffee filter or a few sheets of paper towel and place over a bowl. Pour the mixture into the strainer and allow the oil to drip until completely passed.
QUICK PICKLED CARROTS
Pickle liquid:
1 cup vinegar
1 cup water cup sugar
1 tsp fennel seeds
Bring all ingredients to a boil in a small pot. Prepare a few carrots by slicing thinly and placing into a separate, heat-proof bowl. Pour the pickle liquid over the carrots and cover and allow to sit for a few hours then store in the refrigerator.
To assemble the dish: Bring a small pot of poaching liquid to a soft simmer. You can make a simple stock with one litre of water and one each of finely chopped carrot, onion, and celery. Add a handful of fresh herbs, a half of a lemon and salt and pepper to taste.
Place the portions into the simmering stock and allow to gently cook until the fish turns white and is just cooked through. It should only take a few minutes.