Scallion oil noodles great introduction to Shanghai dishes
Whenever people new to Chinese home cooking ask Betty Liu which recipe they should start with, scallion oil noodles is usually the answer.
“It’s a very classic Shanghainese dish,” she says, “and it’s also very straightforward.”
In Shanghai, where Liu’s family is from, you can readily find scallion oil noodles at breakfast shops, family-owned restaurants and noodle houses across the city. The recipe is among those featured in her new cookbook, My Shanghai.
Scallions, soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, white pepper and dried noodles are all you’ll need to make it at home. If you have dried shrimp, adding it will provide an extra boost of umami, says Liu. But unlike the scallions — which are the centrepiece — omitting it is by no means a dealbreaker. (She makes the dish quite frequently without dried shrimp herself.)
You can also tweak the recipe by adding ground pork, Liu suggests: simply fry it in the scallion oil and then proceed with assembling your bowl of noodles.
Taking your time toasting the scallions in oil is key. The further you take them over gentle heat, the more complex the caramelized flavour.
“It’s a great illustration of a different way to use the scallion flavour,” says Liu. “And it represents the way that Shanghainese food is so focused on the natural flavour of the ingredient, and enhancing that instead of overpowering it with spices or sauces. ” two servings of any dried noodles — soba and ramen noodles will still have a great effect.)
Directions:
Step 1
Place the dried shrimp in a small bowl with hot water to cover and soak for 30 minutes. Drain and pat dry with a paper towel.
Step 2
Smash the scallions with the side of a meat cleaver. Pat dry with a paper towel to avoid any water droplets from causing the oil to splatter during stir-frying.
Step 3
Heat the oil in a well-seasoned wok over medium-low. Add the scallion segments and let them fry slowly, so they turn yellow without burning. Stir occasionally so the segments brown evenly. This slowly rendered-out flavour is essential to this recipe — be patient and let the toasty flavour infuse the oil. Let the scallions cook for 20 to 30 minutes, but for a deeper flavour, cook them at a lower heat for longer, even up to one hour. Reduce the heat to low, add the shrimp and cook for another 5 minutes.
Step 4
Meanwhile, mix together the dark and light soy sauces, vinegar and sugar.
Step 5
Increase the heat to medium and immediately pour the soy sauce mixture into the wok. Fine bubbles and foam will form in the sauce (if it bubbles too much, your heat is too high) and begin to caramelize. Stir to dissolve the sugar and let simmer for two to three minutes to thicken. Turn off the heat. Add the white pepper. Add the cooked noodles to the wok and toss to combine. Divide the noodles between two bowls, making sure to scoop up the scallion segments.
Makes: 2 servings
Note: You can also make scallion oil ahead of time. Quadruple the recipe above and follow the steps. Let it cool and pour it into a sterile jar; it will keep in the fridge for up to one month. Use it anytime to elevate any dish you’re making. (For this recipe, use three tablespoons.)