The Welland Tribune

Finding the perfect pair

- CRAIG YOUDALE Craig Youdale has been in the food and beverage industry for three decades as a chef, restaurant­eur, professor, internatio­nal competitor and now dean of the Canadian Food and Wine Institute at Niagara College. His passion for all things food

Red wine with steak, white wine with fish, Chardonnay with lobster, Shiraz with barbecue.

What exactly is a person to do when trying to figure out what wine to serve, and what will go well with the food that is being served for dinner?

This age-old pairing of food and wine is steeped in history and has centuries of precedent and research and still remains a topic of vast discussion, controvers­y and frustratio­n.

Here in Niagara we have some of the country’s best cuisine with all the resources and ingredient­s our chefs have access to, and they are surrounded with endless options of local wines from the lightest and driest white to bold and tannic reds.

If you were lucky, you might have had a dining experience at one of the winery restaurant­s in Niagara and been given clear options on what you should have with your pasta and how to bring the most out of your dessert; but how do you figure this stuff out on your own?

Sommeliers can make these choices after years of experience and the immense amount of wine knowledge needed can be overwhelmi­ng.

This has caused the average consumer to just choose the wine they love and use it to wash down their favourite salad or the low and slow charred flesh they spent all day watching on a smoker.

To each his own, but I can tell you the reality is combining wine and food can create some challenges and not all of them go together well.

Some pairings can actually take both the food and the wine down a notch as well as cause a nicely balanced dish to suffer. The expression is cause and effect, and we have all experience­d it in our lives. I personally love fresh mint, and I also have a keen love for fresh squeezed orange juice; but taking that first sip of juice just after I brush my teeth is not the pleasure palace of taste I am hoping for when I start my day at breakfast.

Profession­als study the lessons of pairing for years before mastering the concept, but I can offer you some advice.

The first is that the main flavour component of a dish is most likely to be the one to react with your wine and is the fundamenta­l compositio­n that matters. Look at food with respect to sweetness, acidity, spice and fats (and not just if it’s salmon or chicken) and you will see they can create interestin­g combinatio­ns with wine.

As an example, try some dry Chardonnay, but suck on a lemon first, and you will find the acidity of the lemon will mellow the acids in the wine and bring forward more fruit and aromatics.

With respect to reds, fat is a protector against tannins and bitterness. That really dry pucker you get from big red wines is from the tannin from skins and oak, and a coating of fat from rare meat or cheese can make those tannins seem smooth and groovy.

So what we really need to know is don’t just settle for the average and the normal, when you can possibly have the interestin­g and the improved.

 ?? CRAIG YOUDALE/SPECIAL TO THE TRIBUNE ?? Finding the perfect pairing of wine with your meal is a challenge, even for experience­d chefs.
CRAIG YOUDALE/SPECIAL TO THE TRIBUNE Finding the perfect pairing of wine with your meal is a challenge, even for experience­d chefs.
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